Just recruited into Notre Shop, two new Service Boot makeups produced by Canadian bootmaker, Viberg, have reported for duty. A coveted couple of commando soled shoes, they’re both built on Viberg’s 110 last. The first comes in a vintage mocha full grain leather with a matching tongue and built using an antique flat welt construction, which gives the toe box a more defined shape.
The second uses a natural waxed flesh leather that’ll wear in and reveal more texture with age. It’s built using Viberg’s familiar stitch-down construction and comes with a contrasting tongue. Whether you’re trudging through terrain or strutting the city streets, these make ups will carry you to your next checkpoint and beyond.
Where I live, San Francisco, we have our own micro climate. The weather can be cold one hour and blazing the next. Thus the need for layers. No matter where you are come springtime, the occasional shower might catch you off guard. Studio D’Artisan‘s there for you though, with their recent release of spring coats.
Simple, elegant, functional, it’s got the silhouette of a mac with the utility of a work coat. The lightweight canvas is coated with paraffin to fend off any water you might run into while also producing a beautiful patina over time. Equipped with two patch pockets as well as a watch pocket, the coat is secured with removable buttons.
Available in navy blue for the conservative and mustard yellow for the Paddington Bear cosplayers, you can pick this piece up for around $275 over at Studio D’Artisan.
It’s a heavy week in the world of fades, and today is no exception. Sent in to us by Michael Ford from Amsterdam, these Momotaro 1005SP‘s have seen their fair share of action in a quick couple of years. A combination of biking, skateboarding, and traveling have earned these jeans not one but two crotch blowouts (repaired each time), a busted knee, one restitched back pocket, and one that just didn’t survive. Now that’s dedication! Keep up with Michael’s brand on Instagram.
Details
Name: Momotaro 1005SP
Fabric: 100% Zimbabwe cotton Momotaro Original selvedge denim
Weight: 15.7oz.
Fit: Tapered
Unique features:
Rinsed once initially in the ocean water off the coast of Kurashiki city, Okayama
Repairing denim is one wonderful part of the hobby, and the results are often a beautiful part of the aging process. Most damage is done to the denim itself, which you can repair by darning (see our full guide here). However, not all repairs apply just to the fabric. This mostly applies to cases of either manufacturing defects, or some sort of unexpected, catastrophic failure of a seam.
A few common ones are split side seams, torn or missing belt loops, and detached back pockets. These repairs are all quick and simple, and with a little bit of care, you won’t be able to tell the difference from the original product.
Reattaching a Back Pocket
Eventually either with extremely hard wear or a particularly bad snag, the back pocket on jeans can tear off. This repair is a little more difficult due to how visible this area is, but if you take it slowly while making the fix the repair should not be noticeable.
How to:
Measure the stitches per inch used on the back pocket and set your machine up to match. This is key in making the repair blend in with the original construction. I did not get this perfect, but the closer you get the better the end result will look.
Use thread that matches the original thread as closely as possible.
Remove any loose thread from the damaged area.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
Start the repair just before the damaged area, lining the needle up with the existing stitching.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
Stop when you reach where the bar tack would be on the pocket. If both rows of stitching are damaged, sew up the other damaged seam before you move on to the bar tack.
Now you are going to recreate the bar tack. Use a small zig-zag stitch with high stitches per inch.
Finally, trim the loose thread and press the pocket if needed.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
Repairing a Split Leg Seam
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You just purchased your first pair of high end denim–A.P.C. Petit New Standards. Somebody on the internet told you to size down four from your typical size, after all, APCs will stretch nearly infinitely, and this is absolutely necessary in order to achieve the perfect fit. You try them on. The fit is on point. You take a couple of steps back and forth in front of a mirror, and the side seams simultaneously burst open under stress.
Everyone has been there at some point. Don’t panic though, this fix is super simple.
How to:
Turn the jeans inside out.
Trim any loose threads.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
The seam is likely chain stitched. Chain stitching is great, since it is slightly stronger than a lock stitch while it is intact. However, when it fails, it tends to unravel. Position the needle about an inch away from the damaged area.
Stitch over the still intact seam a couple of times before you start to close the hole.
Follow the crease in the seam until you have sealed the hole completely, and go over the still intact seam the same way you did at the start to prevent the seam from unraveling further.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
If your jeans are finished with an overlock stitch, fix that by going over wherever it is missing with a zig zag stitch. This isn’t a perfect fix, but it is better than either doing nothing, or buying a specialized machine for one repair.
Trim any loose threads, and press everything flat.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
This can also occur on flat felled seams. The process for repairing these borrows elements from repairing the type of seam you will generally see on an outseam, and reattaching a back pocket.
How to:
Trim the damaged threads.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
Measure the stitches per inch, and try to match this while repairing.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
Position the needle three or four intact stitches away from the damaged area. This will help prevent the chain stitched hem from unraveling. Positioning for this repair can be a little tricky.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
Continue past the damaged area for three or four stitches.
Trim any loose threads.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
Detached Belt Loop Repair
Personally, this has happened a couple of times. It’s easy to get caught on something without noticing, pull away, and snap the loop off. This is especially true if you clip your keys to a belt loop. Luckily this is another easy fix.
How to:
Since this is more visible than an interior side seam, use a thread that matches closely to the other stitching on the belt loops.
To recreate the bar tack on a domestic sewing machine, I like to use the smallest possible zig-zag stitch and a stitch count around 10-12 stitches per inch, or as high as your machine will go.
Remove any loose thread before you begin the repair.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
Sew over where the bar tack used to be. I like to do one pass with a straight stitch followed by three or four with a zig zag.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
Trim the loose threads and you’re done.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
Replacing Pocket Bags
Sometimes, when a pocket bag wears through, either with a large hole or multiple holes, the best option is to replace the entire damaged portion of the pocket bag.
How to:
Identify the damaged area of the pocket bag, and cut it off. Try to leave as much undamaged material as possible.Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
Recreate the piece you just cut, adding 1″ for the seam allowance. Ideally you would do this in a fabric with similar weight, but stronger than the original. Ripstop cotton works well.
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This is the damaged piece to recreate.
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This is the recreated pocket. The very edge of the bottom seam is not fully sewn, which will make the piece easier to attach.
Connect the two pieces with a French seam. With the pocket bag inside out, sew around the two pieces leaving a 1/4″ raw edge. Turn the pocket bag right side out, and sew around again to enclose the raw edge.
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Stage one of sewing.
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Stage two after pressing.
Trim any loose thread and press so the seam sits flat.
Knowing how to do these relatively simple repairs is essential for anyone who wears their denim into the ground. They give you the opportunity to give new life to a nearly destroyed pair, and the foundation to learn how to make other structural repairs in a subtle way.
With a decade in the industry under their belts, Momotaro is celebrating by doing what they do best–making jeans. Offered in three fits, the brand’s 10th Anniversary Collection is heavy on the heritage and heavy on the details, featuring denim by long time business partners Okayama Denim.
Some highlights from this release are the cowhide leather patch sourced from the Tochigi Leather Factory of North Tokyo, custom Peach & Gold selvedge ID, and indigo dyed canvas back yoke. Being the ten year milestone, Momotaro pulled old buttons from collections past for a “button timeline” in the front fly that only a true jeans freak will totally appreciate. To wrap it up, they’ve added custom jacquard pocket bags, special woven labels, and of course–their classic battle stripes arcuate.
Denim and leather: aside from being an obscure early ’80s metal band by the band Saxon, it’s also a term that just seems right. That’s likely because nothing belongs in a pair of raw jeans more than a quality leather wallet, which is what we have for you today.
Reader Christoffer Zetterlund of Sweden has used this Leewallet for more than two years, and it’s patina has reached a perfect golden brown. He has not given it any repairs, as it doesn’t appear to need any. Note the indigo stains on the back of the wallet, and the imprint of the tongue flap. This natural vegetable tanned leather wallet looks built to last, and here’s hoping it holds up.
Fade Friday is here, everyone, and hold on to your seats because we have quite the pair of jeans for you. Reader Tharapong Khamvanet of Thailand has graciously sent us photos of this lovely pair of Samurai JeansS5000VX 15th Anniversary 25oz. They’ve seen the better part of only a year of wear with one sea wash and have turned out to be a dream for those who love high contrast jeans. Honeycombs don’t get much bigger or more sharply defined than this, folks. The subtle stacking over the monster cuffs isn’t too shabby either, and there’s even a Zippo fade in the coin pocket for good measure. Can these continue going? We certainly hope so.
Details
Name: Samurai JeansS5000VX
Fabric: 100% cotton original SamuraiJapanese selvedge denim
Weight: 25 oz.
Fit: Straight
Unique features:
Intertwining red and silver selvedge; representing samurai sword and bleeding passion of samurai soul
Front pocket bag woven with message in beige threads; reads as “Shogyo Mujo”, or “all things change”
Don’t say bye to your cash as easily as you say ‘Bye, Felicia’, our Sales Compendium has the best selection of discounts on all your favorite brands. Pick up a deal that will make you say ‘Daaaaaaaammmnnn!’
There’s a ton of great stuff out there. And, while we would love to cover it all, we thought it best to just give it to you straight. The Weekly Rundown is here with the latest happenings from around the web.
Wearing your jeans every day is the only prescription when it comes to raw denim. Results will vary but you can be well on your way to greater fades down the line. For Sandika Akbar, 10 months was all he needed to develop some healthy fades.
With 3 washes and a single soak under his belt, his Oni552‘s have maintained an overall brighter blue with the lightest areas at the thighs. Up close, you can really see the texture of Oni’s “Secret Denim” come to life with plenty of slub. In another 10 months’ time, we can only imagine that there won’t be much indigo left.
If you’ve been keeping up with U.S. politics, you know there’s been a lot happening lately. What you definitely missed is H.R.644 going into effect, a.k.a. the Trade Facilitation and Trade Enforcement Act of 2015, a.k.a. the America Gives More Act, what you need to know is in Title IX, Sec. 901 which says the following:
TITLE IX–MISCELLANEOUS PROVISIONS
(Sec. 901) It is the sense of Congress that the USTR should encourage other countries to establish commercially meaningful de minimis values for express and postal shipments that are exempt from customs duties and taxes and from certain other entry documentation requirements.
This bill amends the Tariff Act of 1930 to increase from $200 to $800 the general de minimis aggregate fair retail value in the country of shipment of duty-free articles imported by one person on one day.
Among other things, the amendments to this bill, signed by President Obama on February 24, 2016, are intended to expand trade. One benefit is that, with a simplified process that lowers the excise tax, more funds can be made available to non-profits.
But, entirely more importantly, you can now buy most of your high end denims from overseas duty free! As most of you know, there aren’t too many Japanese jeans that you can buy for less than $200. It’s a process prohibitive to that artisanal denim life. Now, though, you can take your denim game to the international level (for up to $800) without duties cop-blocking you.
Except for Endrime‘s $1100 handsewn jeans. And Momotaro‘s $2000 handwoven jeans. But if you’re seriously considering either of those jeans, I doubt you’re worried about duties. Aside from those, get your credit cards out, open up a new tab, preferably one that leads to an overseas retailer, and cop yourself a new pair of jeans.
With Daylight Savings upon us, we may lose an hour of sleep, but we spring forward into another solid Fade of the Day. Today’s pair comes from Timothy Tan of Singapore who wore this pair of Nudie Jeans Co.Long John Twill Rinsed jeans for a year with a single soak. The stretch denim in combination with the super tight fit has produced some characteristically tight honeycombs. Tan says he leaves them out in the sun every 2-3 days which would explain why they’re already so light. By the time we set our clocks back, we can only imagine that they’ll be even brighter and even more beautiful.
Details
Name: Nudie Jeans Co. Long John Twill Rinsed
Fabric: Power stretch denim, 98% cotton, 2 % elastane
It’s a man’s world out there: it’s no secret that menswear–particularly of the well-made, timeless variety–has been taking the fashion world by storm over the last several years. Yet, in many ways, it’s left the parallel of well-made, timeless womenswear in the dust.
Gentlemen, you may scoff, but it’s surprisingly difficult to find, say, a black cotton cardigan sans bells and whistles. Part of the problem is the longstanding preeminence of the business of women’s fashion, where sales are driven by this season’s bells versus last season’s (horribly outdated) whistles.
Enter Tradlands. Established in 2012 by Sadie and Jeremy Roberts, the company upends expectations in a few ways. They focus their brand. Like, really focus. Like, women’s button-up shirts only. And they eschew dramatic trends in favor of timeless, consistent design.
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Sure, there’s new and seasonal fabrics, and patterns are constantly tweaked, but Tradlands is carving a niche alongside the ones held by Brooks Brothers, Gitman Brothers, and even Rogue Territory. Such brands build cult followings because people go through life with their products: a customer can come back to a certain item season after season and rest assured that the cut and materials have either stayed consistent or, simply, improved.
Speaking of classics, the “trad” in Tradlands derives from the term to describe traditional mid-century American menswear: a notion of finding inspiration in a set conception of style, and making it even better.
“Lands” is a nod to their San Francisco roots: Golden Gate Park was originally known as Outside Lands. Though they’re not natives to the Bay–Sadie hails from Rhode Island and Jeremy calls Illinois home–it’s the city where the Tradlands dream began to take shape.
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Pinned down to desk jobs that they knew weren’t the end-all-be-all, Sadie and Jeremy began to brainstorm possibilities for a shared endeavor that would bring them closer together and allow greater freedom. The structure took shape before the content was decided upon.
“We felt stifled and had a yearning to facilitate what we wanted our life to be. I didn’t want to do something for 40 years that my heart wasn’t in,” says Sadie.
With her education and work experience in textile design, Sadie noticed the disparity in quality between men’s and women’s shirts, and she was growing tired of tailoring more reliably classic, built-to-last shirts from the men’s department.
“We wanted to focus on something and really make it the best that it can be. I think there’s really something special about that, and it’s really hard to stay in that place and do it really well. I want to stay true to the commitment that we made, to make really phenomenal shirting for women. It took me a really long time just to do that.”
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Tradlands as a brand doesn’t call out any particular city or state as home; it reflects an all-encompassing sense of “America.” This is in keeping with the Roberts’ desire to realize a professional dream that’s an authentic extension of their own lives.
Sadie and Jeremy have committed to finding a sense of place in many different corners of the US over the last handful of years. Since San Francisco, Maine, Illinois and most recently SoCal have taken their turns as Tradlands World Headquarters. Like many startups, the business began as an after-hours endeavor, with Sadie and Jeremy working to build up Tradlands while winding down their desk jobs. They’ve been all-in for the last two and a half years, and the business is primarily Team Roberts, with trusted partners for more specified needs.
As Sadie describes, it’s also been an incredible exercise in growing alongside another person: “There’s someone supporting me that makes me the best small business owner I can possibly be… It helps you focus on what’s important.”
The two have learned to home in on their abilities and interests in complementary aspects of the business: Sadie heads up design, sourcing, social media, and customer engagement, while Jeremy takes the lead on general operations, web development, and production.
Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.Sadie’s desk job was an illuminating look into the vast world of apparel production. The experience helped her to see that she could bring her own business into being. It was also an education in the different ways to do business.
“I was able to see close-up what overseas manufacturing often looks like. Communication was always challenging, quality could be very spotty, and it seemed like timelines were really long, much more flexible than I think is healthy for a business.
“And talking about the human aspect, the quality of the conditions for workers, really seeing what that looked like firsthand helped me to realize that I only wanted to be working in an environment where I felt really good about the conditions the people I was employing were in – that they were paid well, that they were as happy as they could be.”
To be sure, Sadie clarifies, there are plenty of things produced outside of the US that are made in responsible conditions. And conversely, there are bad manufacturing practices in our own backyards. “It’s tough when you know competitors are making something for much cheaper, but it’s not actually all the same.”
For Tradlands, stateside is the way to go, because it allows the Robertses to sit down with their manufacturer (in Chicago) and address a whole range of manufacturing priorities and concerns, in person and on an ongoing basis.
A hurdle for many small businesses is being able to meet the minimums required across the whole process of production, from ordering fabric and other raw materials, to working with the most established and respected sewing contractors.
Finally finding their Goldilocks fit, Sadie and Jeremy have built a strong relationship with a manufacturer in Chicago, led by a mother-daughter team. “We’re a huge part of each other’s business and it’s been a great partnership.”
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And it’s those challenges that provide so much more room for growth, progress and discovery. There’s a whole world reserved for young entrepreneurs in terms of creativity, exploration, and downright hacking it.
The flexibility and responsiveness required of building a business from the ground up makes for new opportunities. For example, instead of using global market research and in-house fabric printing capabilities to choose next season’s prints, Sadie surveys customers about their style preferences.
This sense of involvement, of giving of a hand in the design process, has established trust and loyalty between Tradlands and its customers. And, in turn, it has helped the brand to find success. With surprising frequency, Sadie and Jeremy receive inquiries about when they’ll start producing mens versions of their shirting. The answer? Sorry guys. It’s a woman’s world.
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Learn more about Tradlands on the brand’s website.
There are plenty of stores that do their own house line. Often times, though, they end up falling short of their third party counterparts. They’re either cheap copies of other designs, or poorly designed pieces that lack appeal. Up There Store‘s in-house line, Premier, seems to navigate those pitfalls with grace as evidenced by their spring/summer ’16 lookbook.
It’s their third installment and it takes on a contemporary casual feel. Nothing outlandish, nothing too boring, it rides a nice line. It’s all made in Japan with Japanese fabrics (Australia’s Asian proximity has its perks), so you can bet that it’s made to last. The collection includes all cotton loop terry sweatshirts with v-inserts, denim and chambray button-ups with gussets and chain-stitch runoff, as well as solid basic chinos. The real standout, however, is their Alpine Parka. It’s a classic jacket with just the right amount of storage. And it’s made with Ventile, so it’s totally waterproof.
The collection ranges from 80AUD (~60USD) to 549AUD (~415USD) and you can find it in their brick and mortar locations or online. (Plus, with the H.R. 644 having recently gone into effect, you can get each piece shipped to the U.S. duty free.)
With great boots comes great responsibility, and yours can look like this too if you wear them for almost four years straight and put in the work to keep them alive. Sent to us by Jelle Patteet from Belgium, this pair of Thorogood 6″ Moc Toe Boots (814-4200) has seen it all, from motorcycle riding to hiking, at festivals and just hanging out on the weekends enjoying a couple cold ones.
Jelle is sure to clean them every few months, which is crucial in maintaining a pair of quality leather boots. While the boots have worn in a considerable amount, there haven’t been any repairs yet, although it looks like a resole might be on the horizon for these guys. Keep up with Jelle on Instagram.
Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.
If you’re looking for a new pair of casual boots, it’s hard to go wrong with a pair of moc-toes. They’re comfortable, versatile, and variable enough that you can have multiple pairs in your rotation. Whether you’re looking for a simple boot for your workwear outfits or something flashy to give your streetwear fits a bit more kick, moc toes are a fun direction to go.
1) Quoddy: Wabanaki in Ebony Brown Chamois
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Over the last few years Quoddy has become one of the most popular Made in the USA handsewn companies due to their high quality construction and slightly 0ut-there designs. Their Wabanaki boot might not be one of their most unique designs, but it is still a pleasant change of pace from more ordinary handsewns. It’s constructed using Horween’s Chamois leather and a coagulated latex sole.
Red Wing’smoc-toe boots aren’t “true” moc toes since they don’t use moccasin construction — rather, they’re part of a family of boots that I like to refer to as mock-mocs. Regardless, they are a great option if you are looking to get a pair of boots with textural stitching on the vamp. This pair is made from one of Red Wing’s newest leathers, Indigo Portage, which is certainly more eye catching than many of their standard colors.
These VisvimGrizzly Boots not only feature hand sewn moc-toes, but also hand sewn side panels — a small detail, but certainly something that sets this pair apart from the pack. Compared to many of Visvim’s boots, these are rather simplistic, but that’s their beauty. They’re simple enough to blend in when you want them to blend in, but unique enough to standout when that’s what you want.
4) New England Outerwear Co: Quarter Boot in Tan Acadia
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New England Outwear Co. is quickly gaining traction with handsewn aficionados, and it’s no surprise as to why. Their boots are simple and not over-designed, a trap that many handsewn companies seem to fall into. And their leather choices are spot on — I’m particularly fond of the lightly pebbled Tan Acadia leather they chose for this pair.
5) Alden: Bartlett Indy Boot in Green Hunting Suede
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Perhaps the most famous mock-moc of all is the Alden Indy Boot. The vamp stitching on Indy boots is completely aesthetic, which makes this style rather divisive. Regardless, the mock stitching on Indy’s really makes the boot, and it keeps them looking sleeker than that moc-toe boots with structurally stitched vamps.
Yuketen’sHunt Boots are pretty simplistic in design, all things considered. In fact, you can find similar 6″ boots from most handsewn companies. But what you can’t find is their wrapped crepe soles. Designed with comfort in mind, the crepe toe and heel plugs are sure to keep your feet happy not matter how long you’re wearing your boots.
As much as the latest drops get us salivating, lookbooks get us going in insatiable anticipation. Workers‘ FW16 lookbook is one such example. Aside from the fact that it’s styled like a Uline catalog, but somehow even more vanilla, the entire collection is solid. If there’s any collection that showcases classic American sportswear/post-WWII GI style best, it’s probably be this one. It runs the gamut with full on workwear fits, suited up styles, and military repro getups.
Since it’s slated for the colder half of the year, most of the color palette is dark and drab. And even though we’re exiting the winter weather and heading into spring sunshine, this latest collection is making it harder to resist layering for the next six months. You can bet this will be on our radar when it finally drops. For now, the jpegs will have to do.
Fast faders are the closest thing a denimhead’s got to instant gratification short of a pair of pre-distressed jeans. Novanda Erico from Indonesia gives us today’s featured fade, a ogle-worthy pair faded after just six months. This pair has the classic Sage grain that we all know and love. Complementing the grain are the beginnings of some really harsh honeycombs that reach all the way to mid-calf. The whiskers are stacked nicely, merging them onto the fade fast track just six months in. Not bad for natural wear.
For some more denim goodness, head over to Novanda’s Instagram.
Details
Name: Sage The Highlander21oz.
Fabric: 100% unsanforized deep indigo selvedge denim
When I first heard about Grant Stone, I was a little dubious. The new brand makes Goodyear welted shoes and boots in classic designs with American sourced materials, BUT they make them in Xiamen, China.
Now I’m a worldly enough consumer to know that “made in China” doesn’t automatically equate to “made like garbage”, but it’s safe to say that Chinese production process is much more of a black box than something made in the United States or Japan.
The black box in this case, however, put out a very well made product. The shoes from Grant Stone are roughly the equal in construction and material as their domestically made counterparts. Full disclosure, Grant Stone is also an advertiser (see the chiclet).
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The Specs
Name: Grant Stone Derby in Black French Calf
Materials: Black calfskin uppers, cow lining, raw veg-tan welt and outsole
The derby is a very sleek and good looking shoe. The natural welt combined with the black calf and brass eyelets makes for a more casual and more wearable shoe than your typical dress pair.
360 degree welts can come off looking clunky, even on boots, but the design here is balanced appropriately to make them feel natural and unweighted.
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I caused the divot on the split welt on the left shoe. I am occasionally too lazy for a shoehorn.
Grant Stone’s signature detail seems to be cross stitching below the eyelets on the front quarter.
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That said, this pair won’t be winning any points for originality. The shoe is basically stitch-for-stitch the same as an Alden Plain Toe Blucher. It’s a razor’s edge to produce a classic shoe without heavily referencing the established makers, but this is fairly obvious.
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Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Cordovan. Image via Unionmade.
To Grant Stone’s favor, if you’re going to take notes from someone, it might as well be Alden.
The Fit
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Grant Stone uses what they call the Leo Last, which is described as similar to the Alden’s full-footed Barrie. That assessment is spot on, I sized down half from my true Brannock size and they fit perfectly with a snug heel and ample room in the toebox.
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Break in was about what you’d expect for an all leather shoe with a thick veg-tan sole–long. It took about 7-8 wears before they started to feel natural on my feet, which is no discredit to the shoe (more on that below).
The Construction
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If you’re going to talk the Alden talk, you’ve gotta be able walk the walk too. And these shoes, despite their Chinese origins, are constructed quite well. (I can’t speak to the overall quality of production shoes, as these were expressly made samples.)
The 360 degree welt is near flawless, with a very even trim where the split comes together. The heel stack and edge dressing are burnished well, stitching is even and uniform, although you can see a little bit of backtracking to lock in stitches on the quarter.
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The Materials
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Now comes the portion of the review where we destroy the shoes. If welted footwear has something dirty to hide, it’s almost always in a place where the consumer can’t see without ruining their purchase. Luckily, we have no hesitations at breaking our new toys.
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Grant Stone advertises that they use a 1.2mm full grain cow lining, a 3.5mm veg-tan leather insole, a steel shank and cork filler, and a veg-tanned leather outsole. And that’s exactly what we found.
The material quality on this shoe is very high, equivalent to the brands that they take cues from. The only synthetic materials we found in the shoe were an EVA foam heelpad and a plastic heel counter, both in no way detrimental to the overall quality.
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The cowskin lining was as thick, if not thicker than claimed, with a small layer of structural interfacing between the calf and the lining.
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One other thing to note is that while the calfskin uppers were clicked well, free of scarring and defects, they did smell strongly like sharpie straight out of the box. That scent, however, faded after a couple wears.
The shoes use a healthy amount of cork and that insole is thick, thick, thick. These shoes will take a good long while to break in that insole, but once it does, the other materials and construction ensure you’re set for years to come.
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Nails in the bottom of the heel after removal of the heelpad.
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You can run but you can’t hide, steel shank.
The Conclusion
The foreign produced Alden clones we’ve seen in the past have cut a significant amount of corners to reach a lower price point. But that isn’t the case with Grant Stone. Their shoe may be produced in China, but it’s of near if not equal quality to the shoe it emulates and is about 40% cheaper.
The question you’ll need to ask yourself is, is domestic manufacturing and classic brand cachet worth several hundred dollars? To some, it absolutely is. But if you’re looking squarely at the $300 range and considering brands like Meermin, Jack Erwin, or even Allen Edmonds, I strongly suggest you consider Grant Stone as well.
You can find more about Grant Stone on their website.
If you like your fair share of kale chips and selvedge denim, Noble Denim‘s latest drop might be for you. It’s crunchy in more ways than one, using 14oz. organic indigo cotton selvedge denim from Nihon Menpu and is equipped with details that’ll make you salivate.
Hidden copper rivets keep the lined rear pockets in place. Black copper buttons secure the fly, and if you ever need to hang your duds, you can do so using the convenient hanger loop. Should you choose to don a pair, you can also expect to gain some patina along the way with the natural veg-tan leather patch.
It’s cut and sewn in America and it comes in both their Earnest fit as well as their Truman fit, which are their slim straight and regular cuts, respectively. Available for $285 at Noble Denim.
