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The Sales Compendium: February 12

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Jeans, boots, jackets–anything that’s on sale enough to do something stupid in. Get ready to step into the Sales Compendium zone with our latest roundup. This near-exhaustive list is posted every Friday, so if you nothing catches your eye this week check back with us the week. Ctrl-F to find your favorite brands!

Store Sales

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3×1

A Kind Of Guise

A.P.C.

Alex Mill

Allen Edmonds

Alpha Industries

Ami

Anachronorm

Andersen – Andersen

Anonymous Ism

Apolis

Arc’teryx Veilance Align Shell Jacket

Armor-Lux

Arpenteur

B.D

Baracuta

Barbour

Barena

Bass

Battenwear

Beams +

Billykirk

BIRKENSTOCK

Bleu de Paname

Buttero

Canada Goose

Carhartt WIP

Cause And Effect

Champion

Cheap Monday

Chimala

Chippewa

Chippewa Boots

Choctaw

Clarks

Common Projects

CONVERSE

Corridor

Cottonopolis

Decho

Dehen 1920

Denime

Dickies

Diemme

Digawel

Dockers

Eastland

Eat Dust

Ebbets Field Flannels

Edwin

Engineered Garments

Epaulet

Epperson Mountaineering

Eternal

ETQ Amsterdam

Evisu

Fabric Brand & Co.

Faribault Woolen Mill Co.

Filling Pieces

Fjallraven

Folk

Freenote Cloth

G.H. Bass & Co.

Gant Rugger

Garbstore

Garrett Leight

General Assembly

Gitman Bros. Vintage

Golden Bear

Grenson

Han Kjobenhavn

Head Porter Plus

HELMUT LANG

Hentsch Man

Herno

Hestra

Himel Brother’s

Hiut

Homespun

Howlin By Morrison

Japan Blue

Journal Standard

Jungmaven

Kapital

Kaptain Sunshine

Kings Of Indigo

Knickerbocker MFG

Koromo

LA Panoplie

LEE 101

Left Field

Levi’s Vintage Clothing

LHN Jewelry

Mackintosh

Mark McNairy

Merz b. Schwanen

Momotaro

Monitaly

Naked & Famous

Nanamica

Neighborhood

New Balance

New England Outerwear

New England Shirt

Nigel Cabourn

Norse Projects

Nudie

Oak Street Bootmakers

Obbi Good Label

Officine Generale

Omnigod

Orcival

orSlow

Our Legacy

Palmer Trading Co.

Paraboot

Pendleton

Penfield

Post Overalls

Private White VC

PRPS

Quoddy

Raf Simons X Fred Perry

Rag & Bone

Railcar Fine Goods

Red Wing

Reigning Champ

Relwen

Robert Geller

Rocky Mountain Featherbed

Rogue Territory

RRL

S.N.S. Herning

Save Khaki

Schott

Shades of Grey

Shetland

Shockoe Atelier

Snow Peak

Soulland

Southwick

Spellbound

Spiewak Golden Fleece

Spring Court

Stevenson Overall Co.

Stone Island

Strathtay by Inverallan

Studio D’artisan

Sugar Cane

Sunny Sports

SUNSPEL

Superior Labor

TCB Jeans

Tender

The Hill-Side

Topo Designs

Tricker’s

UES

Universal Works

Victory Sportswear

Visvim

White Mountaineering

wings + horns

Wolverine

Woolrich

Woolrich White Collection

Y.M.C.

Yellow Rat

Yuketen

The post The Sales Compendium: February 12 appeared first on Heddels.com.


The Weekly Rundown: Menno van Meurs of Tenue de Nîmes

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Photo: Jordi Huisman

There’s a ton of great stuff out there. And, while we would love to cover it all, we thought it best to just give it to you straight. The Weekly Rundown is here with the latest happenings from around the web.

Photo by Jordi Huisman

The post The Weekly Rundown: Menno van Meurs of Tenue de Nîmes appeared first on Heddels.com.

Fade of the Day – Voyej Lanyard II (1 Year, 7 Months)

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For some leather appreciation, today’s Fade of the Day comes from Taufiq Ismail and his Voyej Lanyard II. Hanging by his side for over a year and a half, it’s gathered a wide-ranging patina. Through heavy heat, and pouring rain, dangling from his motorcycle key, there are tones of walnut wood as well as areas that have nearly no patina at all. Ismail makes sure to keep it conditioned, too, with some Obenauf’s which adds to the beautiful wear.

To follow along in his adventures, head over to his Instagram.

DETAILS

  • Name: Voyej Lanyard II
  • Material: American natural vegetable tanned cowhide
  • Unique Features:
    • Antique brass hardware
    • Burnished edge
  • Currently not available

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Crary Boots – Portland’s Custom Bootmaker Seeks Crowdfunding

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Crary Boots Kickstarter Lifestyle

Crowd-funded brands can raise an eyebrow or two, offering questionable “rewards” for chipping in a lot of money they need for supplies and labor. Crary Boots is not one of those brands.Bill Crary, the son of the founder of Danner Boots, worked at his dad’s shop most of his early life until he decided to start his own custom boot making business in 1978. Now fast forward to 2016, where Bill and his team have prepared their first full line of boots to be made available to consumers worldwide.

Since going live on Kickstarter, Crary Boots have generated over $65,000 (exceeding their set goal of only $20,000), with still a month left to go. The money received so far acts as a pre-order for the five new models of boots they are releasing. Crary’s business model aims to cut out unnecessary retail markups while simultaneously creating a product out of higher quality materials with great attention to detail.

At first glance, these boots may not have you drooling. The simplistic, relatable designs produced in classic colorways won’t blow your mind, and Crary knows that. They have included several diagrams literally cutting their boots in half, breaking down the materials and methods used in the production. That’s where the shoes pull away from the competition.

Included among the five new boots being released with this campaign are four styles of men’s boots as well as a single women’s boot. The Mount Hood boot may remind you of a Danner boot (not surprising really) made with a half inch foam padded tongue, full leather upper and liner, steel shank and Vibram outsole. The Badlands boot is reminiscent of a desert boot style, with three metal eyelets and offered in two colorways. Covering all the bases, the Burnside boot is Crary’s take on the classic American moc-toe, offered in two different brown leathers. Finally, the Pacific Crest is the highest priced boot, and looks like a taller version of the Mount Hood with more ankle cushioning and support.

Available for pre-order now for $225-$350 at the Crary Boots Kickstarter.

The post Crary Boots – Portland’s Custom Bootmaker Seeks Crowdfunding appeared first on Heddels.com.

Fade of the Day – Upper Class Les Enfants Terribles UC-R3 (2 Years, 1 Month, 3 Washes)

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Kakishibu is red, indigo is blue, honeycombs are sweet, and so are today’s Fade of the Day. Whether you’re celebrating this February 14th with a significant other or not, you can still enjoy today’s fade, a pair of Upper Class Les Enfants Terribles UC-R3‘s submitted by Lukas Schuler of Zürich.

He’s worn these jeans for over two years with light wear working as a graphic designer. What’s resulted is a revealing of some solid whiskers and honeycombs amidst a beautiful green cast.

DETAILS

  • Name:Upper Class Les Enfants Terribles UC-R3
  • Fabric: 60% cotton, 40% recycled paper
  • Weight: 12.25 oz.
  • Fit: Slim
  • Unique Features:
    • Felled inseam
    • Tucked belt loops
  • No longer available.

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The post Fade of the Day – Upper Class Les Enfants Terribles UC-R3 (2 Years, 1 Month, 3 Washes) appeared first on Heddels.com.

Inspiration LA Vol. “Super Original” 2016 Recap

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inspiration LA hellers cafe

Part flea market, part trade show, part rockabilly motorcycle party; the eighth iteration of Rin Tanaka’s Inspiration show came and went this past Friday and Saturday in Los Angeles. Inspiration is arguably the best vintage and vintage-inspired clothing gathering in North America, if not the world.

You know how every once in a while some special item like a deadstock pair of 501s from the 50s graces the pages of eBay? Inspiration is where they all turn up at once. Whether your addiction is denim, leather, t-shirts, boots, or anything that can be dyed indigo, the show has the highest of the high quality and rarest of the rare finds to feed your needs.

Hardcore workwear aficionados turn out in droves to swap stories and swap product before the Rose Bowl Flea Market the following Sunday. This year brought out the usual suspects in vintage and new brands.

Josh Warner from Good Art Hollywood.

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True Fit, a must own for any vintage denim fan.

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Dave Himel of Himel Bros.

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Taka Okabe, Atsu Matsushima, and Shogo Koike of Clutch Magazine.

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Indigo dyed wood at the Freenote Cloth booth.

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Unmarked of Leon, Mexico makes all of their footwear by hand and incorporates traditional Mexican styles. This boot’s sole is made from an airplane tire.

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inspiration-LA-8They’re also fans of the cut-down test.

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Comedian and friend of the site Dean Delray picked up a new moto jacket in midnight blue from The Real McCoy’s.

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Only the best vintage can be found at Heller’s Cafe.

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Cordovan as far as the eye can see at Julian Boots.

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And just as much in veg-tan at Made Solid.
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Fardin Sefidpar sticks to the old ways at Whitefeather Mfg.

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Hand-lasted, welted, and tacked–the boots Brian the Bootmaker makes at Role Club more than speak for themselves. Get in line now, he can produce about five pairs a month and the waiting list is only out until October.

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Stack-Aly and the PF Flyers team cut up an old Carrom board for a unique display.

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YKK had with them an original automatic kick press from the early 1900s. This machine is still fully-functional.

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Santa Rosa boots lineup.

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The team from Burgus Plus.

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The post Inspiration LA Vol. “Super Original” 2016 Recap appeared first on Heddels.com.

Kapital Fukkin Kountry Lookbook and Video NSFW

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Kapital Fukkin Kountry Lookbook and Video NSFW

Kapital has always pushed the boundaries. And with the release of their latest Kapital Kountry lookbook, shot by Eric Kvatek as per usual, with video shot by Hsiang Chin Moe, the denim envelope is still being pushed. Mixing sex, denim, and rock & roll, Fukkin Kountry is full of studded denim jackets, slim rocker silhouettes, and of course, plenty of boro.

It’s gritty and hard-edged, reinforced with grainy photography. The collection’s texture is brought out against backgrounds of graffiti, concrete garage floors, and brick walls with chipped paint.

Kvatek says this about the shoot,

The Fukkin Kountry shoot is a chance to experiment, push boundaries, take risks and otherwise play with ideas. While it will be familiar to fans of Kapital, there are aspects of it that are obviously unique to Kountry.

Like the typical Kapital shoot, I produced, cast, prop styled and shot this Kountry project. Kiro wanted something crazy, something wilder than the regular book. With his request in mind, I thought it would be fitting to pay homage to 1970’s biker party porn, which is something you used to see in motorcycle magazines. I felt this would be a great opportunity to use some of my local resources in Brooklyn, New York. All of the models were cast locally, carte blanche access to Works Engineering, a motorcycle garage and shop in the neighborhood solidified the final decision and look. Sourcing the engineer boots, rope, belts, skulls and chains was easy as I just had to go through my own closet.

For this particular Fukkin Kountry project, I wanted the story to be told in more than the moments of photographs and bring out the essence of this wild Kountry sex party in a video. Kiro and I art directed together and collaborated with the filmmaker of the Kapital World Movie, Hsiang Chin Moe to create a short film. As our shoot went on for the day, Kiro was full of ideas and kept on adding more and more elements including bondage and cocaine snorting off the hood of my truck. There was plenty of improvised moments. One special treatment to the video is the original music score that was specifically tailored to this video by Taiwanese musician, Ko Da Bow. The music really captures the mood I was going for, kind of a desperate frenzied rush to keep a good time going.

One challenging aspect of the shoot was to make it different enough to be it’s own Kountry “thing” and yet still fit into the Kapital world. Kiro, Nicola Corl, and I were worked together as always on this project and we are extremely familiar with the traditional Kapital look. At this point having shot over 30 Kapital books, I definitely feel the pressure of creating something new but I enjoyed the challenge. It is easy, I guess, to inevitably imitate yourself but I take on each shoot as a new opportunity to grow as a photographer. I think with Fukkin Kountry we did succeed in “tricking” ourselves. Once Kiro said to make something crazy my imagination just went wild. I made a list of scenarios and then crossed off a few that are probably illegal. Rebellion is deeply rooted in our hearts! As always it was a team effort, but especially in this case it was the models and actors that made it a success. They really gave it their all.

It’s wild and in your face with brawls, blood, and breasts. So if you’re reading this at the office, you might want to bookmark this for later and get back to work.

You can expect to see the collection available next season.

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Fade of the Day – Volcom Limited 14 oz. Okayama Denim (2 Years, 2 Months, 2 Washes)

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Fade of the Day - Volcom Limited 14 oz. Okayama Denim (2 Years, 2 Months, 2 Washes) Front After

Yup, you read that right. While some of us (myself totally included) may remember Volcom from the days of skateboarding in the high school parking lot, today’s Fade of the Day proves that they’ve still got it going on.

These jeans are Volcom’s Limited 14 oz. Okayama Denim submitted by Eddie Miyoshi from Tokyo, Japan. Worn for over 2 years, these bad boys look like they can take a beating and live to tell the tale. This pair is a made in Japan exclusive and is only available in Volcom Japan stores, but you might be able to get lucky on Rakuten.

DETAILS

  • Name: Volcom Limited 14 oz. Okayama Denim
  • Fabric: 100% cotton Okayama denim
  • Weight: 14 oz.
  • Fit: Straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Made in Japan exclusive
    • Volcom logo leather patch
  • Some sizes available for $195 on Rakuten

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Blue Bandanas – Five Plus One

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Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.


For some, bandanas are just another part of their everyday carry, while for others the idea of carrying a bandana seems rather old fashioned. In all honesty, when I first started carrying a bandana I didn’t expect to like it as much as I do now.

Not only can they help you complete many different outfits, but they’re dead useful too. Need to keep the sun out of your eyes on a long flight? Bandana. A public bathroom is out of paper towels? Bandana. Foot cut off after sleeping on the train tracks? Tourniquet bandana!

So whether your adding to your bandana collection or just want to know what it’s all about, I hope this list will be of use to you.

1) 45RPM: Ine no Minori Bandana

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First up is an indigo dyed bandana from 45RPM, which is available both with a white and indigo base. For the uninitiated, there are two main whys to create an indigo pattern. The first is to put indigo dye on a white fabric, and the second is to dye a fabric white and then “remove” the color with some secondary agent such as bleach. The latter method is called “discharging,” and can have some beautiful results, such as those shown above.

Available for $80 from 45RPM.

2) The Hill-Side: Selvedge Chambray Bandana in Asagi Turquoise

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For those who want something a bit more simple and robust, this chambray created by The Hill-Side might be right up your alley. Anyone who has handled any of TH-S’s products can attest to how wonderful their fabrics are, and I’m confident this bandana is no different. It’s perhaps a bit more utilitarian than many other offerings on this list, but is that really a bad thing?

Available for $27 from Unionmade.

3) FOOD52: Sashiko Embroidered Bandana

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Japanese sashiko embroidery can create some marvelous patterns, which makes it a perfect candidate for use on a bandana, at least in my opinion. And not only does sashiko produce nice designs, but it is actually a form of reinforcement as well. Historically, sashiko was done using white thread on indigo cloth, and it’s nice to see this tradition stay alive.

Available for $68 from Foot52.

4) Left Field NYC: Natural Indigo Hand Dyed Bandana

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Bandanas and raw denim are often seen together, particularly in a Japan. But if there is one American jean company known for their embrace of the bandana, it’s Left Field NYC. In fact, the pocket bags on all of their jeans are all printed with bandana. Even if you are fortunate enough to have a full denim rotation, that doesn’t mean you have to skip-out on the Left Field bandana game — now, you can have your own LF branded bandana all its own.

Available for $60 from Left Field.

5) Tellason: Navy Silk Bandana

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Bandanas don’t always have to look so workwear-ish, both in pattern and material, and Tellason embraces this with their elegant paisley patterned silk bandana. Produced for them in Italy, this hankerchief would make an excellent addition to any collection. And while it might be too delicate for much utilitarian usage, let’s be honest: sometimes we buy things just for show.

Available for $89 from Cultizm.

Plus One – Kapital: Jean Blueprint Bandana

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If there is one company destined to be the Plus One in any article they’re mentioned in, it’s Kapital. Their stuff is a bit out there, but all of it is just so cool — it’s hard not to appreciate the products that they put out. This Japanese made bandana has a fairly unique design, featuring miniaturized cutting patterns fora basic pair of jeans. We might not be Rawr Denim anymore, but that doesn’t mean that anyone here at Heddels likes their jeans any less.

Available for $36 from Unionmade.

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Railcar Fine Goods Spikes Fit X026 Black Jeans

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The next pair of jeans in your closet just might just be from Monrovia’s finest, the Railcar Fine Goods Spikes Fit X026. Much requested, they’re RFG’s first ever black jean. They use a 13 oz. Japanese black warp, black weft selvedge denim done up in their slim straight fit. Tonal stitching with a black leather patch means this jean is completely blacked out for a very clean look.

But beauty is only fabric-deep, and although black x black denim isn’t anything new, it’s the construction and vintage machinery behind the jeans that set the X026’s apart. As with everything RFG does, this pair is cut and sewn in-house which, among other things, translates to greater quality control. With sewers who have decades of experience using machines like the vintage Union Special flat-felling machine, single-needle chain stitching machine, and Singer double-needle machines, you can expect some quality stuff.

Available for $198 at Railcar Fine Goods.

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Fade of the Day – Uniqlo MIJ (3 Years, 1 Wash, 3 Soaks)

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Raw denim comes in all price ranges but fades are fades, and we have a good one here. Ian Black from Scotland brings us his Uniqlo MIJ pair today.

After 3 years of wear, Ian has light blue lap fades that transition to white knee fades with overlapping honeycombs. Some fraying on the pockets with wide honeycombs makes this jean unique. The back pockets have some holes but that only adds to the character of the jean.

Find Ian over on Instagram.

DETAILS

  • Name: Uniqlo Slim Fit Straight Selvedge
  • Fabric: 99% cotton, 1% spandex raw indigo selvedge denim
  • Weight: Unknown
  • Fit: Slim
  • Unique Features:
    • Overlocked inseams
  • No longer available.

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Viberg Boot – Three Generations of Innovation and Quality

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Viberg Boots, now in its third generation of family ownership, has been producing work boots since 1931. Well-loved among Heddels and its readers, we’ve discussed Viberg dozens of times already. But never have we actually told its story. Today, that changes.

Back in the 1930’s Edwin Viberg started his brand with the goal of making great, durable shoes for the men who really needed them: the farmers and loggers of the Pacific Northwest. From the beginning, it was a down to earth and carefully thought out operation. Ed had the forethought to use brass tacks on the shoes in order to avoid any rust forming on his shoes in wet farms or forests. They set up shop in Victoria in Canada’s British Columbia province in 1948, and 20 years later it was here that the Viberg factory was created. Edwin might have passed on, but his son Glen is still on the shop floor.

For the majority of its existence, function has thoroughly trumped style at the Viberg design table. In fact, the main website for most of its shoe styles is simply “Workboot.com”, where you can find Viberg’s logger, western, biker, workplace, hunting boots and more; along with other brands that Viberg holds in high regard. One of those is DannerPortland, Oregon’s generations old bootmaker–with whom Viberg shares a long history and at one point even shared shoe designs.

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Once the heritage boot came back in style, the burgeoning tide raised all ships, and opened a new market for Viberg to join brands like Red Wing, Wesco, Alden, and Wolverine in producing high quality boots for more style conscious consumers than their typical lumberjack clientele. For Viberg, the bread and butter has been a modern update to Ed Viberg’s original work boot, the Service Boot.

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Three Viberg Service Boot makeups for Chicago’s Notre Shop.

The Service Boot is akin to many World War II era military boots. The two most popular lasts are the 2030 and the 1035. Both of these have a quarter that is more drastically curved around the heel and a toe box that is either partially structured or unstructured. As such, the shoe stands out as sleek and dynamic, often offset by the use of chunky leather laces and a high tongue. It is a superb example of refined utility, looking better with age and still carrying itself well in formal environments.

This is, in part, indubitably due to the standard of quality Viberg maintains with its wares. The shoemaking process has over 200 steps and incorporates the best materials the brand can get its hands on: finely tanned leathers, British Dainite soles, insoles from Spain, and hobnails from Switzerland. It’s an uncompromising adherence to detail, but it pays off.

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The Viberg family has been smart on the business end as well. Few workwear brands have collaborated for as long and as often with boutiques and other brands. It has helped the lifestyle designs stay innovative, rather than reactionary.

In addition to the Service boot, the heritage line incorporates a myriad of derby boots, trench boots, engineers, chukkas and more. Recently, the family dusted off and revised one of Ed’s prototype designs in a derby shoe. It’s taken off and now can be found in ten different options on the home website alone. The experimenting has also led to some startling results, like the Inside Out Service Boot brand manager Guy Ferguson discussed this past fall. It’s hard to say whether or not this would every make it to market, but it’s fun to see a brand trying something different.

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Unfortunately for the wallets of Viberg’s aspiring customers, these creations do not come cheap. Don’t expect to pay less than $680 US for a Chromexcel option or a cool thousand for something in shell cordovan. It’s double what more common options can be had for, but Viberg owners will attest to it being worth the extra cash. For the more frugal, keeping an eye out for Viberg’s sample sale might be the best way to go. Last year’s New York event in June saw 400 pairs in a wide number of sizes sell for between $200 and $600, yielding notable savings to those lucky few.

Investing in good shoes is perhaps the best purchases one can make. Beyond basic style, keeping your feet upright and supported will do the same for the rest of you. Your feet aren’t going to grow and shrink like your waist line, nor bulk up after leg day at the gym. So rest assured that it’ll be money well spent–just make sure you get the right size.


Viberg can be found on the brand’s website and across the globe at these stockists.

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Left Field Italian Linen Blend Jeans

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Warmer weather is just around the corner according to Punxsatawney Phil, and to prepare your legs for the early spring, Left Field NYC has the goods with some linen blend jeans.

Their Blue Selvedge Italian Linen Denim is a breezy mix of 35/65 linen/cotton from Italy’s own Blue Selvedge mill. Midnight dark, it almost looks like it has an indigo weft. With consistent wear, this should translate to some high contrast summer fades. And, with that fabric, that should be easy to do in damn near any heat, so there are no excuses for wearing anything but these lightweight linens come summer.

It’s currently on offer in their Chelsea fit, a slim-fitting jean, and it’s available for $235 at Left Field NYCNote: until February 24th at 11:59PM EST, get 15% off this model with discount code, “HED15”.

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Fade of the Day – Naked & Famous Weird Guy 17 oz. Herringbone Indigo/Indigo (13 Months, 1 Wash, 2 Soaks)

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Fade of the Day - Naked & Famous 17 oz. Herringbone Indigo/Indigo (13 Months, 1 Wash, 2 Soaks) Full front back

Coming in hot to start your day are these Naked & Famous Weird Guy 17 oz. Herringbone Indigo/Indigo jeans, actively worn for just over a year by Chris Healy from Oklahoma.

This is a unique denim that has produced equally unique fades, with those herringbone weave lines subtly standing out amongst the heavy pocket fading and whiskering. Biking, hiking, climbing, camping–you name it. These jeans have survived it so far, with some extra fading on the knee Chris blames on his German shepherd.

Keep up with Chris (and his pup) on Instagram.

DETAILS

  • Name: Naked & Famous Weird Guy 17 oz. Herringbone Indigo/Indigo
  • Fabric: 100% cotton herringbone denim
  • Weight: 17 oz.
  • Fit: Slim
  • Unique Features:
    • Limited edition release–only 21 pairs made.
    • Black tonal stitching
    • Gunmetal rivets and buttons
  • No longer available.

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Why Not Wool? – Beneath the Surface

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Fig. 1 - Building a better beanie with Noah (and Woolmark)

My guess is that readers of this site love a clothing material that is durable, substantive and utilitarian–whether it’s denim, duck canvas or flannel that comes with a weight. Which brings to mind, why is wool not getting more love? Or simply put: why not wool?

I first started thinking about this several years ago after being blown away by the Buzz Rickson Wool Flannel CPO shirt at Self Edge. It’s made out of high quality wool, warm for its weight and I found it surprisingly easy on the skin. And, like all Buzz Rickson pieces, loaded with great details. I figured it’d be a hit. After seeing it stick around through a winter’s season, I remember asking the Self Edge head honcho Kiya Babzani, “What’s up with that?”

“People are afraid of wool,” he replied.  And over the years, I’ve come to agree with that sentiment. I asked him for additional thoughts recently, to which he expanded:

“This is mostly due to the fact that many consumers equate wool with a textile that is itchy feeling and/or a textile that can’t be machine washed.  Most consumers want a comfortable garment that is easy to care for, but don’t realize that there are many types of wool – many of which are extremely soft and even machine washable.”

This feels right to me and speaks to a need for further thought and discussion. But before we get to that, I think it’s useful to understand where some of our misperceptions might be coming from.

Head to toe in wool (vintage photograph via pinterest.com)

Fig. 2 – Literally head to toe in wool (vintage photograph via Pinterest)

I remember that first, awful, itchy wool sweater my mother bought for me back in the eighties. We were a family of limited means, so I can fully understand that it was unlikely to be premium quality–I’m sure many of you can relate.  That, coupled with the fact our house was well insulated meant that wearing a warm sweater wasn’t really a necessity, but that first impression lingered on in my imagination. And I’m sure it continues on today for a new generation of shoppers with wool blended sweaters that don’t do justice to the material (I’m looking at you, impossibly cheap Uniqlo lambswool blend sweater with 30% nylon).

It was years before I understood that there are many kinds of wool–wool is a broadly generic term for a particular textile obtained from a variety of animals. There are certain criteria that distinguishes it from similar things like hair and fur, and those animals could be as diverse as goats, sheep or alpaca.  For the purposes of this piece, when I refer to wool, I mean a basic sheep’s wool that can’t be classified as something more specific or expensive (if you’re interested in learning about more, Sierra Trading Post has an excellent primer).

The very first specialty wool I became aware of was cashmere, followed by merino wool in the late nineties (merino wool refers to the wool from the merino sheep). Around that timeframe, the global supply of cashmere met the surge in demand that caused its high price in the eighties, causing its commodity price to fall to the point that even the middle class could afford it. These are wools with a luxurious handfeel, so it’s no surprise that they became popular alternatives to “regular” wool.  So much so, that the over-farming of the goats that produce cashmere has created an environmentally disastrous situation.

Fig. 3 - Sheared Merino Sheep, 2006 (via megandelehanty.com)

Fig. 3 – Sheared Merino Sheep, 2006 (via Megan Delehanty)

I can totally go to bat for the merits of merino and cashmere–in addition to the general positives of any wool (great warmth for weight, breathable, water resistant, renewable, recyclable), their softness makes for easy wear as a skin-adjacent layer. That said, neither merino wool and cashmere have a natural structure. While that’s great for elasticity (merino in particular is known for this, which is one of the reasons why it’s the natural fiber of choice for outdoors brands), it means that the textile is loose and drapey.

That’s what was so amazing about the Buzz Rickson CPO–it has a pleasant crunch to it and delivers on performance. The shirt was fabricated out of melton wool, which is often used for outerwear due to its wind-resistant finish–making it the ideal candidate for a shirt jacket. And, simply put, wool offers unparalleled structure relative to merino and cashmere–that’s why even finer suiting is made out of wool rather than either the above alternatives.

Buzz Rickson's CPO Shirt (via Earth Market on rakuten.com)

Fig. 4 – Buzz Rickson’s CPO Shirt (via Rakuten’s Earth Market)

So how do you identify high quality wool? I’ve recently seen a few different examples–other than the CPO, Noah has produced an amazing tartan beanie out of Scottish wool–it’s the perfect combination of soft and light.

On the other end of the spectrum, I found an insane deal on a pair of worsted wool dress pants from Lanvin (#workwearthatworks). What they all have in common is being made from virgin (also known as new) wool, which is wool that is being used for the first time – a good thing to keep an eye out for. And, in the case of the beanie and pants, they both bear the Woolmark brand of certification on an inside label.

Certified Woolmark (via woolmark.com)

Fig. 5 – Woolmark certification (via woolmark.com)

Woolmark is an Australian trade association dedicated to the advocacy of wool within the fashion industry. And like all trade associations, you should take their claims with a grain of salt. That said, their certification program is a good indicator of a high standard of quality – it wouldn’t do for a trade group trying to promote high quality to endorse something that makes wool look bad. They have made a concerted effort over the past few years to increase global advocacy of wool (they opened a Paris office in 2013, so possibly those Lanvin pants are a result of that), so expect to see their logo on more new apparel to come.

One other thing about sustainability, 100% wool garments are recyclable and biodegradable, but technology does not yet exist to recycle blended wool. I’m very mindful these days of the downstream consequences of my consumption patterns, so I am biased towards purchasing pieces that can be realistically recycled or reused.  More on that subject, one of these days.

If this all seems a lot to take in, I see parallels with the basic level of knowledge required to understand raw denim and the physical discomfort that comes with breaking in a pair of heavy loomstate jeans or untreated duck canvas. And to be honest, the affordable luxury of merino and cashmere have probably made us question the value of finer wool pieces. Nonetheless, I am optimistic for the time that we, as a community, reset our expectations of wool and come to appreciate it for what it is.

So, tell me–why not wool?

The post Why Not Wool? – Beneath the Surface appeared first on Heddels.com.


Ebbets Field Flannels Spring 2016 Lookbook

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Ebbets Field Flannels Spring 2016

Since 1988, Ebbets Field Flannels has been producing some of the most historically accurate portrayals of American sporting wear. They continue that tradition with this brand new Spring 2016 look book, which features several new caps in both six and eight panel variations, as well as some new spins on their Authentic Flannel (Baseball Jersey).

Ebbets is also releasing new Football and Hockey knits, constructed using 100% American Rambouillet wool. With strands often inches longer than traditional Spanish Merino wool, the high quality result is what Ebbets believes to be the true dedication to craftsmanship that defines the brand.

Available for $32-$225 at Ebbets Field Flannels.

The post Ebbets Field Flannels Spring 2016 Lookbook appeared first on Heddels.com.

Fade of the Day – Oldblue Co. The Beast (18 Months, Unknown Washes)

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They must breathe denim over there because we have yet another eminent fade from Indonesia. Okti Giffari has worn his Oldblue Co.‘s for a year and a half and they have produced this white grainy look throughout the entire jean. The honeycombs are stacked and have harsh lines that can only be created with hard wear. The front of the jean has very little to no indigo left with a harsh knee fade to complement the entire jean.

You can find Okti over on Instagram.

DETAILS

  • Name: Oldblue Co. The Beast
  • Fabric: Unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim
  • Weight: 21 oz. pre-soak, 23 oz. post-soak
  • Fit: Slim
  • Unique features:
    • Hidden rivets
    • Felled inseam
    • 12 oz. Okayama red hickory pocket lining
  • Available for $286 at Chain Stitches

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The post Fade of the Day – Oldblue Co. The Beast (18 Months, Unknown Washes) appeared first on Heddels.com.

Fade Friday – RRL Slim Fit Rigid (6 Years, 7 Months, 2 Washes, 1 Soak)

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Fade Friday - RRL Rigid Slim Fit (6 Years, 7 Months, 2 Washes, 1 Soak) Front Top

Repairs, tears, and fades, oh my! This week’s Fade Friday is a veritable smorgasbord of denim eye candy, courtesy of reader Leslie Morgan from Atlanta.

Leslie bought these RRL Slim Fit Rigid jeans back in 2009 and wore them to school, skating, camping, and work. He’s retired them several times for repairs, most notably to the crotch. These beauties are fraying at the pockets, both front and back, and knees in ways that pre-faded jeans wish they looked. Now that they’ve reached grail status, Leslie is considering framing them, glass-on-glass style, which is wholly appropriate for these jeans.

Follow him on Instagram.

DETAILS

  • Name: RRL Slim Fit Rigid
  • Fabric: 100% cotton selvedge denim
  • Weight: 16oz.
  • Fit: Slim straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Embroidered logo on coin pocket
    • Heavy twill pocket linings
    • Chainstitched waistband
    • Made in USA
  • Available for $240 at Unionmade Goods

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The post Fade Friday – RRL Slim Fit Rigid (6 Years, 7 Months, 2 Washes, 1 Soak) appeared first on Heddels.com.

The Sales Compendium: February 19

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bladerunner

I’ve seen sales you people wouldn’t believe. Kamakaze Attacks on clearance at Rakuten. I watched Studio D’artisan’s on fire sale off the rack at Blue Owl. All those deals will be lost in time… like fades in rain… Time to buy.

Sales come and go, which is why we’ve dug deep to compile a list of all the current special offers. This near-exhaustive list is posted every Friday, so if you nothing catches your eye this week check back with us the week. Ctrl-F to find your favorite brands!

3sixteen

3×1

A Kind Of Guise

A.P.C.

Alex Mill

Allen Edmonds

Alpha Industries

Ami

Anachronorm

Anatomica

Anonymous

Apolis

Appointed

Arc’teryx Veilance

Baldwin

Baracuta

Barbour

Barbour Heritage

Barbour International

Barbour x White Mountaineering

Baxter of California

Beams +

Billykirk

Buttero

Canada Goose

Carhartt WIP

Chippewa

Clarks

Common Projects

Edwin

Engineered Garments

Epaulet

Etudes Studio

Freenote Cloth

Gant

Garbstore

Garrett Leight

General Assembly

Gitman Bros.

Golden Bear

Han Kjobebhavn

Kings Of Indigo

Levi’s Vintage Clothing

Luigi Bianchi Mantova

Mark McNairy

Momotaro

N. Hollywood

Nanamica

New England Outerwear

New England Shirt

New England Shirt Company

Nigel Cabourn

Norse Projects

Nudie

Omnigod

orSlow

Our Legacy

Red Wing

Reigning Champ

Rogue Territory

RRL

S.N.S. Herning

Schott

Southwick

Stevenson Overall Co

Studio d’Artisan

Sugar Cane

Sunny Sports

SUNSPEL

Tender

The Hill-Side

Thom Browne

Tricker’s

Wings + Horns

Wolverine

Wood Wood

Woolrich

Yuketen

The post The Sales Compendium: February 19 appeared first on Heddels.com.

The Weekly Rundown: Darren Romanelli and Vintage Clothing Surgery

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Photo: Ja Tecson for Hypebeast

There’s a ton of great stuff out there. And, while we would love to cover it all, we thought it best to just give it to you straight. The Weekly Rundown is here with the latest happenings from around the web.

Photo: Ja Tecson for Hypebeast

The post The Weekly Rundown: Darren Romanelli and Vintage Clothing Surgery appeared first on Heddels.com.

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