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Stevenson Overall Company Cody Snap Shirt

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Your classic Levi’s sawtooth western shirt is a staple piece of heritage clothing, but if you want a twist on a classic, the Stevenson Overall Company Cody Snap Shirt is the denim shirt. It’s got more curves than your average western shirt, so it’ll stand out from the denim laden cowboy crowd a little bit. And, if you’re looking for finer details beyond some fancy yokes, this one’s get ’em.

It uses a rinsed 6.5 oz. pure indigo cotton denim with Zimbabwe cotton for starters. SPI peepers will be satisfied, too, as it’s got a pretty fine stitch count. And, rather than your traditional pearl snap buttons, as nice as they may be, Stevenson put this together with Belnap stone snap buttons.

Available for $255 at Self Edge.

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Fade of the Day – Oldblue Co. Hand Overdyed II (2 Years, Unknown Washes)

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It’s indigo on indigo for today’s Fade of the Day for all of you who can’t get enough of the blue stuff. Reader Altwins of Indonesia sent us this pair of Oldblue Co. Hand Overdyed II jeans that are clocking in at two years of wear. These jeans have been worn regularly to college, and still have yet to undergo any repairs. The indigo weft on these jeans have helped to give them a powdery look, the arcuates (which are hard to see when these jeans are new) have popped through, and the honeycombs have reached a nice, watery look. The denim on these jeans actually started off as unsanforized 14 oz. Cone Mills denim but was then dipped in indigo 11 times to achieve their unique look.

You can follow Altwin’s adventures on Instagram.

DETAILS

  • Name: Oldblue Co. Hand Overdyed II
  • Fabric: Cone Mills 100% cotton one-wash selvedge denim
  • Weight: 14 oz.
  • Fit: Slim, low rise
  • Unique features:
    • Hand-dipped 11 times in Indonesian indigo
    • Crotch rivet
    • USA-made bison leather patch
    • Denim-lined pocket bags
    • Black laurel wreath button fly
  • Available for 1,950,000 Indonesian rupiah (~USD$140) from Oldblue Co.

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Melamine Buttons – From Tableware to Shirtwear

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You may not put a great deal of thought into the buttons on the apparel you wear, but trust me, someone did. One of the most amazing developments in button technology (if there is such a thing) in the twentieth century is the use of Melamine Resin, a plastic polymer formed by melamine and formaldehyde. Melamine products are shatterproof, fireproof, and incredibly light, which made them a natural fit for military applications, but not in the way you might initially imagine.

In 1940, the US Navy was looking for a replacement for its tableware. The ceramic plates, bowls, and mugs they had been using were too heavy, fragile, and large for the Navy’s uses, especially when the onset of WWII looked to engulf the United States at any given moment. The British armed forces had switched over to a type of urea-formaldehyde plastic called ‘Beetle’, but it was not nearly as resilient as the Americans wanted.

melamine naval plates

“Watertown Ware” the melamine dish sets made for the Navy in WWII. Image via Plastic Life.

Watertown Manufacturing Company, a production facility in Connecticut won the contract and introduced the Navy to the beauty that is Melamine. The new plates and bowls not only weighed 80 percent less and took up 75 percent less shelf space than their ceramic counterparts, but they were also nearly indestructible. By 1942, the Navy already had melamine on ships around the world and with the price of the plastic plummeting, the military began to look for other applications.

Traditional nut, wood, and mother of pearl buttons simply wouldn’t do in a modern war. In 1942, Emsig Manufacturing Corporation, also of Connecticut, introduced the melamine shirt button and soon melamine became the choice that was cheaper, laundered better, and simply wouldn’t break. The majority of the buttons on American uniforms from WWII onwards were made of melamine.

red-crow-henley-buttons

A military issue henley with melamine placket buttons. Image via Red Crow.

You can tell a melamine button as they usually have a telltale seam around the outside edge, “flash” excess plastic in the buttonholes, or a knockout pin left from the button mold. If you want to go all The Thing on it though, you can hold it to an open flame as a melamine button will never catch fire.

Many brands today still use melamine buttons on their products, like Engineered Garments, Nigel Cabourn, and Left Field NYC.

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Melamine button on Left Field NYC chinos.

wwii-impressions-buttonsWWII Impressions repro Marine uniform with melamine buttons.

1939-repro-melamine

Vintage repro melamine buttons on display. Image via The 1939 Clothier.

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A.P.C. x Aesop Post Poo Drops Bathroom Deodorizer

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Jean Touitou’s label A.P.C. has long since outgrown the moniker of being a mere clothing brand. The “Atelier de Production et Creation” is a full fledged “lifestyle” juggernaut that has inroads into every aspect of your existence and the latest frontier they’ve set sights on is making your shit smell better.

No joke.

The French brand has partnered with Australian grooming and tonic makers Aesop to produce something called titled Post Poo Drops (that’s “Gouettes Anti-Odeur de Merde” for you Francophones). Like a hyped up bottle of Glade, the concoction is a mixture of citrus and flower aromatics that should cancel out any airborne poo particles.

You wouldn’t think bathroom smell would bother A.P.C. when their denim washing policy advocates waiting as long as humanly possible and then washing in the ocean, but who are we to judge? Perhaps they can be used on jeans as well.

The 3.4oz. dropper set (a size that sadly negates it’s use in airplane bathrooms) is available for $29 at Aesop.

The post A.P.C. x Aesop Post Poo Drops Bathroom Deodorizer appeared first on Heddels.com.

Fade of the Day – Adidas Rekord (18 Months, 2 Washes, 1 Soak)

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You probably didn’t know Adidas made jeans until you saw this post, and neither did we. But, it’s true. And lo, here is another one for you if you didn’t believe it the first time. Today’s Fade of the Day is a pair of raw selvedge jeans from the brand with the three stripes, and comes to use courtesy of reader James Natividad of the Philippines. Natividad has worn these jeans regularly for the past year and half, and so far they’re holding up with no repairs. Credit where credit is due: it’s certainly something different.

DETAILS

  • Name: Adidas Rekord
  • Fabric: 98% cotton, 2% elastane selvedge denim
  • Weight: 13.25 oz.
  • Fit: Slim taper
  • Unique features:
    • Blue Adidas “three-stripe” selvedge ID
    • Selvedge on coin pocket and back pockets
    • Adidas arcuates
  • No longer available

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Loop & Weft Merino Lambswool Sweaters

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Loop & Weft is heavy stuff. Not heavy in that it weighs a lot nor that it really brings the mood down, but heavy in that the material, detail, and production aspects of their creations are so involved it can be difficult to pick up the thought of them.

Loop & Weft’s motto is simply “Best Knitwear” and they back it up. This crewneck sweater is made from the wool of Australian merino lambs and entirely manufactured in Japan on circular weft-knitting machines, not unlike loopwheeling. This process creates a sweater that has no side seams, but L&W go a step further by dial linking the sleeves to the torso. Rather than trim the excess ends and sew over like a traditionally made sweater, L&W is actually connecting finished ends of the sleeve and torso pieces. The result is a stronger garment, with cleaner lines, and zero wasted fabric.

Additional details include a knit-in V in the collar like on older sweatshirts and dual ribbed sleeves and collar. All this can be yours in Navy and Brown for $265 at Okayama Denim.

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American Trench x Shockoe Atelier Moleskin Jeans

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American Trench x Shockoe Atelier Moleskin Jeans

Coming in with another fresh collaboration, American Trench has teamed up with Shockoe Atelier to produce these winter-friendly Moleskin Jeans. With winter finally rearing its head, you might be thinking of alternatives to your old busted up jeans with holes in the knees, and durable cotton moleskin could be your answer. It offers ease of movement while blocking wind and retaining heat, not to mention they don’t look half bad either.

These jeans are cut in Shockoe’s standard, contemporary slim fit for a modern look without feeling like you just slid into a pair of long johns. Three different fabrics were used in making the pocket bags, and they come with engraved metal buttons and reinforced belt loops.

Available for $185 at American Trench.

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Fade of the Day – A.P.C. New Standard (5 Years, 4 Months, 1 Wash, 2 Soaks)

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When you repair your jeans, it means you’re willing to put in the work to keep your jeans alive forever. Well, forever may not be realistic, but 5 years and 4 months is pretty good–especially for A.P.C.’s. These New Standard’s were worn by Leslie Morgan of Atlanta, Georgia and have more repairs than Evel Kneivel. Heavy wear at work combined with skateboarding have come together to thrash these jeans to threads. There’s barely any indigo left, let alone fabric, and we’ll be very impressed to see if they make it to 6 years. With some solid repair work, though, they might. 

You can follow up with him over on Instagram and see his very special business cards.

DETAILS

  • Name: A.P.C. New Standard
  • Fabric: 100% cotton Japanese selvedge denim
  • Weight: 12 oz.
  • Fit: Slim
  • Unique Features:
    • Five-pocket riveted construction
    • Button fly
    • Branded buttons
  • Available for $185 at Armitage & McMillan

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The post Fade of the Day – A.P.C. New Standard (5 Years, 4 Months, 1 Wash, 2 Soaks) appeared first on Heddels.com.


The Top 15 Raw Denim Fades of 2015 – Vote for a Winner and Win!

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With so many submissions pouring into our inbox every day, we introduced Fade of the Day in 2015, opening the gates to fade glory for many. But, as you may know, only the most faded, and holey-ist of submissions are worthy enough to ascend into the upper regions of the fade firmament–Fade Friday.

Chosen from the cream of the 2015 crop, we’ve called forth 15 of the best Fade Friday features and have assembled them here. These come in no particular order. But only one can rise above the rest to be crowned Best Fade of 2015. That’s where you come in. We want you to cast your vote for which Fade you think deserves the top spot.

But bragging rights aren’t all this year’s top fader will take home. The owner of the best fade will win a new pair of jeans from Okayama Denim worth up to $300 AND unlimited repairs on that jean from Rain Delisle and Tyler Madden’s new repair studio Indigoproof! One lucky voter will also win copies of the most recent issues of Clutch MagazineMen’s File, and W. David Marx’s book Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style. Voting will be open until 11:59pm ET this upcoming Thursday.

Enough talk though, let’s get to the fades!

3sixteen SL-120x (1 Year, 1 Wash)

hEIdUlN

DETAILS

  • Name: 3sixteen SL-120x
  • Fabric: 100% cotton, indigo warp, black weft raw selvedge denim
  • Weight: 14.5 oz
  • Fit: Slim straight
  • Unique features:
  • Available for $230 at Self Edge

Iron Heart 25 oz. Mega Beatle Buster (2 Years 3 Months, 0 Washes)

IRON HEART 25OZ. MEGA BEATLE BUSTER

DETAILS

  • Name: Iron Heart Mega Beatle Buster
  • Fabric: 100% cotton Japanese raw selvedge denim
  • Weight: 25 oz.
  • Fit: Slim Straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Special Popeye branded leather patch
    • Limited to 119 pairs
    • Hidden knife pocket
  • No longer available from Iron Heart

Lee 101 Logger (7 years, 0 washes)

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DETAILS

  • Name: Lee 101 Logger
  • Fabric: 100% cotton denim
  • Weight: 9.75 oz.
  • Fit: Relaxed
  • Unique Features:
    • Suspender buttons
    • Lee Jeans leather patch
    • Six pockets
  • Available for 90 Euros at Daily Rush

Old Blue Co. 21/23 oz. Beast (1 Year, 3 Washes, 1 Soak)

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DETAILS

  • Name: Old Blue Co. 21/23 oz. Beast
  • Fabric: 100% cotton unsanforized selvedge denim
  • Weight: 21 oz. pre-wash, 23 oz. post-wash
  • Fit: Slim straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Old Blue pocket arcs
    • Branded leather patch
  • No longer available

The Strike Gold 1105 (16 Months, 8 Washes)

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DETAILS

  • Name: The Strike Gold 1105
  • Fabric: 100% cotton unsanforized selvedge denim
  • Weight: 14.5 oz.
  • Fit: Slim straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Iron and copper hardware
    • Gold sparkle selvedge id
  • Available for $330 at Self Edge

Sage Marcher 22 oz. (15 Months, 2 Washes, 1 Soak)

SAGE MARCHER 22 OZ.

DETAILS

  • Name: Sage Marcher 22 oz.
  • Fabric: 100% unsanforized deep indigo selvedge denim from Japan Blue Collect
  • Weight: 22 oz.
  • Fit: Slim straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Belt loop hook
    • Hand-sewn leather patch
  • Available for $170 at Sage

Red Cloud R400 (8 Months, 3 Washes, 3 Soaks)

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DETAILS

  • Name: Red Cloud R400
  • Fabric: Unsanforized slubby twisted yarn right hand twill selvedge denim
  • Weight: 17 oz.
  • Fit: Straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Goatskin leather patch
    • Laurel leaf buttons
    • Made in China
  • Available for $219 at AB Fits

Naked & Famous Left Hand Twill (2 Years, 3 Washes, 1 Soak)

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DETAILS

  • Name: Naked & Famous Left Hand Twill
  • Fabric: 100% cotton Japanese left hand twill selvedge denim
  • Weight: 13.75 oz.
  • Fit: Skinny Guy (slim straight)
  • Unique Features:
    • Branded buttons and rivets
    • Stamped leather patch
  • Available for $140 at Nordstrom

Left Field 23 oz. Greaser (11 Months, 4 Washes)

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DETAILS

  • Name: Left Field Heavyweight 23oz. Greaser Jean
  • Fabric: 100% cotton selvedge denim from Collect Mills
  • Weight: 23 oz.
  • Fit: Slim straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Hidden rivets
    • Bandana print pocket bags
    • Heavyweight leather patch
  • Sold out at Left Field

Warpweft SP-03 Irregular Weft (14 Months, 4 Washes, 1 Soak)

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DETAILS

  • Name: Warpweft SP-03 Irregular Weft
  • Fabric: Unsanforized 100% cotton selvedge denim from Kaihara Mills
  • Weight: 14.5 oz.
  • Fit: Straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Coffee dyed pocket bags
    • Selvedge on fly
  • Available for 1,100,000 Indonesian Rupiah (~$83 USD) at Darahkubiru

Jean Shop Denim Jacket (7 Years, 1 Soak, 0 Washes)

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DETAILS

  • Name: Jean Shop Denim Jacket
  • Fabric: 100% cotton selvedge denim
  • Fit: Type III
  • Weight: 13.5 oz.
  • Unique Features:
    • Button waist tabs
    • Back patch
  • Available for $298 at Jean Shop

Unbranded UB101 (1 Year, 7 Months, 0 Washes, 0 Soaks)

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DETAILS

  • Name: Unbranded UB101
  • Fabric: 100% cotton sanforized Japanese selvedge denim
  • Weight: 14.5 oz.
  • Fit: Skinny
  • Unique Features:
    • Hidden rivets
    • Selvedge coin pocket
  • Available for at $82 at Nordstrom

Momotaro x Japan Blue 0700SP (1 Year, 8 Months, 6 Washes)

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DETAILS

  • Name: Momotaro x Japan Blue 0700SP
  • Fabric: 100% cotton rope dyed indigo selvedge denim
  • Weight: 14.8 oz.
  • Fit: Slim taper
  • Unique Features:
    • Custom engraved brushed nickel buttons
    • Cowhide leather patch
  • Available for $210 at Cultizm

Pure Blue Japan X015 (1 Year)

PURE-BLUE-JAPAN-XX-015-CIGARETTE-SLIM-approx-13-months

DETAILS

  • Name: Pure Blue Japan X015
  • Fabric: 100 % cotton selvedge denim
  • Weight: 14 oz.
  • Fit: Slim straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Hidden rivets
    • Sheep skin leather patch
    • Iron buttons
  • Available for £239 or $366 at Rivet and Hide

Crossover Denim Chennai (6 Months, 1 Wash)

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DETAILS

  • Name: Crossover Denim Chennai
  • Fabric: 100% cotton Japanese selvedge denim
  • Weight: 16 oz.
  • Fit: Slim straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Red and gold pocket arcs
    • Wabash fabric pocket bags
  • Available for 8,500 Baht (~$260 USD) at Pronto

Vote for Your Favorite Fade of 2015

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The post The Top 15 Raw Denim Fades of 2015 – Vote for a Winner and Win! appeared first on Heddels.com.

The Sale Compendium: January 22

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Sales come and go, which is why we’ve dug deep to compile a list of all the current special offers. This near-exhaustive list is posted every Friday, so if you nothing catches your eye this week check back with us the week. Ctrl-F to find your favorite brands!


STORE-WIDE SALES

BLUEOWL

  • Archive Sale

CORRIDOR NYC

  • Large Sale

HABERDASH

  • Going out of business: up to 50% off

MR. PORTER

  • Up to 70% off

JEANS

Kaptain Sunshine East Coast Jeans.

ANN SHEPPARD

BALDWIN

BLUE BLUE JAPAN

BLUE de GÊNES

COPIN DENIM

DOUBLEWOOD

IMOGENE + WILLIE

JAPAN BLUE

JEAN SHOP

K.O.I. – Kings of Indigo

KAPTAIN SUNSHINE

KICKING MULE WORKSHOP

KORAL

LEFT FIELD

LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING

MOMOTARO

NAKED and FAMOUS

NOBLE DENIM

NUDIE

PAULROSE HERITAGE

PHIGVEL

RAG & BONE

RAILCAR FINE GOODS

RALEIGH DENIM

RISING SUN

ROGUE TERRITORY

SHOCKOE

STUDIO D’ARTISAN

TELLASON

  • Surplus $50
    • This is a grab-bag type sale. Many items will be raw jeans, but this is not guaranteed. Chinos, cords, etc. are all possibilities.

UNBRANDED

UNITED DRY STOCK GOODS


PANTS

Hill Side JE2-305 Cover Twill Pants (Black)

18WAITS

A.P.C.

APOLIS ACTIVISM

ARPENTEUR

  • Petanque Trousers (Grey, Navy) $299 $179

BLUE de GÊNES

CHIMALA

EDWIN

GROWN & SEWN

H.W. CARSON

HILL SIDE

J.W. BRINE

  • Trousers (Tan, Grey) $298 $66 – $74

NAKED AND FAMOUS

NUDIE JEANS

NORMAN PORTER

OFFICINE GENERALE

  • Paul Garment Dye Pants (Navy) $250 $99

ORSLOW

PAUL SMITH

RALEIGH DENIM

ROGUE TERRITORY

SAVE KHAKI

  • Slim Twill Trousers (Navy, Slate) $140 $94 – $98

SPELLBOUND

STEVEN ALAN

TENDER CO.

UNBRANDED

UNIS

UNITED DRY STOCK GOODS

WINGS + HORNS


LONG SLEEVE BUTTON SHIRTS

Rogue Territory Blue Chambray Shirt

A.P.C.

APOLIS

ARPENTEUR

BALL and BUCK

BAND of OUTSIDERS

BARBOUR

BLUE BLUE JAPAN

BLUE de GÊNES

CABOURN

COAST-WIDE

ENGINEERED GARMENTS

GITMAN VINTAGE BROTHERS

HAMILTON 1883

HAN KJOBENHAVN

THE HILL-SIDE

LEE

LEVI’S MADE AND CRAFTED

LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING

MOMOTARO

NAKED AND FAMOUS

NEW ENGLAND SHIRT CO.

NORSE PROJECTS

NUDIE

ORSLOW

OUR LEGACY

OVADIA & SONS

PAULROSE PRODUCTS

PAUL SMITH

RAG & BONE

ROGUE TERRITORY

SPELLBOUND

STEVEN ALAN

STEVENSON OVERALL CO.

  • Buck Jones Plaid Shirt (Yellow) $248 $149

TENDER CO.

UNITED DRY STOCK GOODS

WINGS + HORNS


SHORT SLEEVE BUTTON SHIRTS

Apolis Striped Shirt

APOLIS

BAND of OUTSIDERS

ENGINEERED GARMENTS

FRENCH TROTTERS

GITMAN VINTAGE BROTHERS

H.W. CARTER

THE HILL-SIDE

PAUL SMITH JEANS

ROGUE TERRITORY

SPELLBOUND

UNITED DRY STOCK GOODS


HENLEYS, POLOS, TEES, and POPOVERS

Rag and Bone Ash Grey Grayon Henley; photos courtesy of Hub Clothing

BILLY REID

EPAULET by GITMAN BROTHERS

GITMAN VINTAGE BROTHERS

MERZ B. SCHWANEN

REIGNING CHAMP

UNITED DRY STOCK GOODS

WINGS + HORNS


SWEATSHIRTS and HOODIES

Engineered Garments Workaday Hoody

ARPENTEUR

BUZZ RICKSON

ENGINEERED GARMENTS

LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING

MERZ B. SCHWANEN

NAKED and FAMOUS

NORSE PROJECTS

OUR LEGACY

REIGNING CHAMP

SUNSPEL

VELVA SHEEN

  • Regular Dye Raglan Sweatshirt (Blue, Red) $105 $75
  • Heather 2-Tone Pocket Sweatshirt (Navy) $160 $125

WINGS + HORNS


SWEATERS

Howlin' Moonchild Sweater

ARC’TERYX VEILANCE

ARPENTEUR

BAND of OUTSIDERS

BEAUTY & YOUTH

FOUR HORSEMEN SUPPLIES

  • Hand Knit Color-Block Cardigan Sweater with Shawl Collar (Rust/Light Grey) $300 $225
HOWLIN’

NORSE PROJECTS

OVADIA & SONS

S.N.S. HERNING

TENDER CO.

WINGS + HORNS


JACKETS and COATS

black_bomber_jacket_front_1024x1024

A.P.C.

ANATOMICA

APOLIS

ARC’TERYX VEILANCE

ARPENTEUR

BARBOUR

BATTENWEAR

BLEU de PANAME

CAPE HEIGHTS

CARHARTT WIP

DICKIE’S 1922

EDWIN

ENGINEERED GARMENTS

EPAULET

GOLDEN BEAR

HAN KJOBENHAVN

HILL-SIDE

IRON & RESIN

JEANS SHOP

KAPTAIN SUNSHINE

LEVI’S MADE AND CRAFTED

LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING

MONITALY

NAKED and FAMOUS

NANAMICA

  • Pier Jacket (White) £335 £201

ORSLOW

PAUL SMITH

PHIGVEL

SCOUT

  • Waxed Canvas/Hemp Day Jacket (Navy, Olive) $392 $333

SO FAR

STEVEN ALAN

SUGAR CANE

TENDER CO.

UNIS

UNIVERSAL WORKS

WINGS + HORNS

WON HUNDRED


VESTS

Post Overalls Royal Traveler Vest (Natural); photos courtesy of Mutiny DC

FILSON

MINOTAUR

MONITALY

POST OVERALLS

STONE ISLAND

SUNNY SPORTS


SHOES, BOOTS, and SNEAKERS

20860_0_1_1024

ALDEN

BUDDY JAPAN

BUTTERO

CHIPPEWA

CHURCH’S

COMMON PROJECTS

DOUCAL’S

GOLDEN GOOSE

GRENSON

HENDER SCHEME

HESCHUNG

LOAKE

NEW ENGLAND OUTERWEAR CO.

OAK STREET BOOTMAKERS

OUR LEGACY

PISTOLERO

QUODDY

RED WING

RICK OWENS

RIDER BOOT CO.

SANTA ROSA

TIMBERLAND BOOT COMPANY

VIBERG

VISVIM

WOLVERINE

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

YUKETEN


ACCESSORIES (BAGS, BELTS, ETC.)

EAGLE OF INDEPENDENCE Washed leather Wallet

BLUE BLUE JAPAN

CARHARTT WIP

CAUSE & EFFECT

EAGLE OF INDEPENDENCE

EPAULET

HUDSON HILL

LEVI’S

MONIKER GOODS

  • Redwood Wallet (Black) $95 $74

PALMER TRADING CO

TANNER GOODS


AUSTRALIAN DENIM SALES

R.J.B. by Flat Head D102A Narrow Straight Fit; photos courtesy of Corlection Store

R.J.B. CO BY FLAT HEAD

TENRYO


EUROPEAN DENIM SALES

Post Overalls No.4 Five Pocket; photos courtesy of Kafka Mercantile and Supply Co.

BYBEATLE

EDWIN

MOMOTARO

NORSE PROJECT

SPELLBOUND

TENDER CO.


WOMEN’S

Naked and Famous High Skinny Stretch Selvedge; photos courtesy of Covert Style

CHEAP MONDAY

JEAN SHOP

NAKED AND FAMOUS

TELLASON

THE WEST IS DEAD

The post The Sale Compendium: January 22 appeared first on Heddels.com.

The Weekly Rundown: A Fashion Entrepreneur at Home in Brooklyn

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Photo: Dave Sanders for The New York Times

There’s a ton of great stuff out there. And, while we would love to cover it all, we thought it best to just give it to you straight. Here’s The Weekly Rundown with the latest happenings from around the web.

The post The Weekly Rundown: A Fashion Entrepreneur at Home in Brooklyn appeared first on Heddels.com.

Freenote Cloth Modern Chef Jacket

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freenote-cloth-chefs-jacket-fit

When you think of a chef jacket, what comes to mind is definitely not what the Freenote Cloth team has dreamt up. It has the skeleton of a chef jacket, sure. Double breasted front with that open throat sort of band collar. But, their Modern Chef Jacket is one that’s a five course meal where a traditional chef jacket is a sleeve of unsalted crackers.

Right out of the gate, it uses a double faced indigo quilted fabric. Fixed with custom burnt horn buttons, they’ve added two welt pockets which are accented with suede. And, though you might not use it back of house, the blanket stripe lining will keep you toasty when you’re strolling through Hell’s Kitchen mid-winter.

Available for $280 at Freenote Cloth.

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Fade of the Day – Rogue Territory SK 14.5 oz. (2 Years, 2 Months, 5 Washes, 2 Soaks)

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Fades really come down to the wearer. Recently, we posted the same jean and they couldn’t look more different. Blake Hendsch from Portland, Oregon, has had his Rogue Territory’s  for two years. The front of these jeans has little to no indigo left in them all the way down to the knees, and the overlapping of the honeycombs is a nice touch.

As for the back, it only gets better. The right back pocket has a deep wallet fade and the honeycombs are staggered down to the calves. The rips on the double cuffs add a little extra character, pulling in the last touch on this great fade.

Keep wearing Blake!

DETAILS

  • Name: Rogue Territory SK 14.5 oz.
  • Fabric: Sanforized all cotton Nihon Menpu selvedge denim
  • Weight: 14.5 oz.
  • Fit: Skinny
  • Unique Features:
    • Hidden rear pen pocket
    • Lined rear pockets
    • Tucked belt loops
  • Available for $220 at Rogue Territory

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Studio D’Artisan D1538xx-C Super Tight Straight Jeans

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Studio D’Artisan’s most eye-catching models may be their strangest, but the brand is also one of the most respected for producing solid repro denim offerings with amazing fabrics. Their latest release, the D1538xx-C Super Tight Straight fit jeans are no exception.

This pair is the third in the series of SDA’s “War Jeans”, which are modeled after the denim American brands released during WWII and the unique features developed to account for wartime rationing. These details include painted arcuates, laurel leaf donut buttons, and bar tacks in place of rivets on the coin pocket.

Most notable though, is that this is the first time the rationed jean has been offered in SDA’s Super Tight Straight fit, which, if anything, will help ration fabric. The denim itself is a super neppy midweight unsanforized fabric.

You, and your proxy, can pick up this pair for 24,800 JPY ($209USD) at Studio D’Artisan.

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Fade of the Day – Pure Blue Japan XX-005BK (2 Years, 2 Months, 2 Washes)

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Closing out the weekend are these Pure Blue Japan’s brought to us today from Singapore. Ming Aun Low has put two years into these puppies and we can tell. The back pocket fades are harsh in the center and creep slowly back to black toward the outside. His honeycombs are stacked high and are virtually white. Ming has worn them regularly and in two years has only had a button fall off. As repairs goes, that’s not bad.

Follow Ming and his adventures over on Instagram.

DETAILS

  • Name: Pure Blue Japan XX-005 BK
  • Fabric: 100% cotton selvedge denim
  • Weight: 14 oz.
  • Fit: Slim Straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Sheepskin leather patch
    • 100% cotton thread sewing construction
  • Available for $275 at Blue In Green

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ZeeBee Leather – One Man’s Journey for Perfection

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If you leave here without knowing anything else, know this: Zachary Brown of ZeeBee Leather is a quality obsessed craftsman. He agonizingly scrutinizes every detail of his work to the point that on at least one occasion, Brown has scrapped a piece with a flaw after 11 hours in. But that level of effort exemplifies why Brown is becoming of the best options for custom leather work in the US.

Brown admits, “There are some workmanship flaws that can be worked out, but if I slip with a stitching groover, or gouge the surface of an otherwise pristine piece, it’s over. I try to handle the leather with respect and let the end user beat the crap out of it.”

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After falling in love with a pair of Wesco Boots seven years ago, Brown became hopelessly obsessed with quality. “It devolved from there,” Brown says. “I began looking at everything with a very careful eye.”

He would soon embrace the cult heavyweight denim brand Iron Heart along with their forum. He loved the relationship the internet enabled him to have with the people who made his clothing. He could give feedback and see it implemented, which struck a particular chord with him.

Professionally, Brown has over 20 years of experience in the culinary world. He’s also a Chief Petty Officer in the Navy, where he enlisted about ten years ago, when the typical restaurant gig left him disenchanted. The combination of honed hand-eye precision, discipline, and DIY gumption eventually lead him into leather working. He explains:

“…When I started looking for a proper knife roll, I was coming up empty handed. So much made in China crap out there. I decided to make my own. I also needed a phone case and figured I could make one for myself as well…

When I first got started, I asked a leatherworker I admired for some advice and he was very reserved. Artists can be like that. I really try hard not to be. I’m very open with my knowledge and I love to help people starting out. I’m not worried about people cutting into my business because they won’t. All they’ll do is strengthen the craft and broaden the scope of what leatherworkers do. We all have something unique to offer.”

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It’s been three years since Brown took the plunge into leatherwork, and he’s proven to be quite good at it. His knife roll into a thing of beauty and he’s expanded his lineup of goods into a healthy variety of belts, bags, cases, and holsters. People took notice, and it wasn’t long before he had an organically created list of customers. The Iron Heart forum also put him in touch with his first retailer, the UK’s NoKipple.

“Gavin Smith and I are old friends from the Iron Heart Forum, and when he and Jon (Joseph) started NoKipple, I got thrown into the mix,” Brown said.

NoKipple, since its inception, has specialized in bringing to market less common goods of high craft and durability so it’s no surprise that they would want to stock their talented leatherworker friend. ZeeBee’s offerings in the shop are limited to a cell phone case and a belt, but not for lack of interest. A single belt can take over twelve hours alone, so he limits most of his production time to custom orders.

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Iron Heart Natural Indigo Jeans

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Iron Heart’s latest release embraces some lighter denim. At 17 oz., it’s still in the heavyweight category, but the denim itself uses organic natural indigo to get its lighter shade of blue, almost like a one wash denim.

Made in their slim IH-666N and straight IH-634N fits, the cotton itself is sanforized and also organic with a beige weft. These may be a little easier to break in compared to other monsters they’ve created, but the indigo in them will stay fixed longer than normal. Expect some high contrast fades down the road.

Both fits are available for $295 at Iron Heart.

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Fade of the Day – Atelier Tossijn Bespoke Jeans (21 Months, 1 Wash, 1 Soak)

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We all want our jeans to fade in a way that is unique to us, but how many of us are wearing jeans made uniquely for us? That’s what reader Willem Bos of Amsterdam has done and the fruits of his labor are today’s Fade of the Day.

Bos had some jeans made to order courtesy of Atelier Tossijn with some Kuroki Mills-loomed denim made using US cotton. Over the past two years, Bos has worn these jeans walking in the Dutch winter, hiking, and cycling. All that riding led to the crotch going, and being repaired, and the knees have been repaired, too. Finally, he was left with some impressive fades, so he had them make another

DETAILS

  • Name: Atelier Tossijn bespoke jeans
  • Fabric: Kuroki Mills 100% cotton selvedge denim
  • Weight: 14 oz.
  • Fit: Slim taper
  • Unique features:
    • Selvedge on button fly
    • Made to measure
  • Available for €45o (~$485) from Atelier Tossijn

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Acetate Eyewear Frames – Five Plus One

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Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.


Whether you need corrected lenses, wear sunglasses due to the weather, or just like the look of glasses, you’ll definitely appreciate high quality eyewear once you get your first pair of nice frames.

Generally speaking, acetate frames are stronger and more durable than synthetic plastic frames, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have high quality synthetics outperforms low quality acetate.

The acetate used for glasses frames is a cotton pulp derivative, which forms into sheets that frame-makers carve down. Manufacturers can produce these sheets in a range of colorways, from your basic solids to faux-tortoise shell patterns, and each is then carved either by hand or machine. How the pieces are cut out of the acetate is important as, just like with leather, portions of the material being used for the same piece need to match.

1) Warby Parker: Beckett in Jet Black Matte

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No one likes sticker shock, but what’s shocking about Warby Parker’s prices isn’t how high they are, but rather how reasonable they are compared to other eyewear on the market. For the same price that you’ll see on frames at your local optician, Warby Parker is able to produce hundreds of styles made from high quality acetate and titanium. Are you going to get the same craftsmanship and attention to detail that you would get with a thousand-dollar pair of frames? No, but that doesn’t mean their products aren’t durable and classically styled.

Available for $95 from Warby Parker.

2) SALT Optics: Paxton in Matte Tobacco Brown

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The eyewear industry is in an unfortunate position, where the vast majority of optical companies are owned by several large corporations. This doesn’t have to be a bad thing, but the unfortunate fact remains: almost every small optical company acquired by one of these large conglomerates sees a decline in craftsmanship and quality. That’s one of the reasons it’s so refreshing to see SALT Optics remain truly independent. Some of their glasses are a bit more stylized than others on this list, but they still produce the classic styles that we all know and love. And hey, once you have a nice pair of everyday glasses, aren’t you going to want something a bit more out-there anyway?

Available for $339 from Good See Co.

3) Globe Specs: The Barracks in Translucent Bronze

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Self Edge has been at the bleeding edge of importing interesting wares from Japanese designers for a decade now, and their eyewear stock form Globe Specs is no different. Each pair is made from high quality Japanese acetate, and are styled based off of vintage military designs. They’re outfitted with tinted, non-prescription lenses, but that can easily be changed to whatever you want.

Available for $320 from Self Edge.

4) Tender Co: Flat Tops in Mock Turtle

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Faux turtle and tortoise shell glasses often look cheap or gimmicky, and real shell glasses are unethical and often illegal, so designing faux-shell eyewear can be quite the task. For me, the appeal of these “mock turtle” glasses is in the fact that they really don’t look like turtle shell at all, but rather a gradient of browns and tans–much more like translucent wood replicates turtle shells. Appearances aside, these glasses are truly something else–they’re designed to stay in place with pressure on the sides of your head rather than hooked stems on your ears. Each pair is finished with seven-chenier hinges, which helps to create a sturdy frame.

Available for £445 from Trestle Shop.

5) Kilsgaard: Kempinsky in Grey

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Kilsgaard is yet another small company producing frames of higher quality than most of the big optical companies. Despite the complex colorway of the acetates they use, the designs are very simplistic–perfect for wearing everyday, or rotating along with several other pairs.

Available for $325 from Good See Co.

Plus One – Thom Browne: Navy & Gold Round Folding Sunglasses

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Alright, I admit it — I might have gone slightly too lavish on this last pair, but I just couldn’t resist. Folding glasses have been around for ages: they’re nothing new, but somehow they still standout from everything else. And there’s something so perfect about these pairs — the navy, gold, and mirrored lenses look fantastic together in a way that very few pairs do.

Available for $1000 from SSENSE.

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Fade of the Day – Unbranded UB221 (3 Months, 1 Soak)

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There’s probably no better way to fade a pair of jeans than to wear them as they were originally intended:  while doing hard work. Reader Kyle DeBoor of Indiana is a paint contractor by trade and has worn this pair of Unbranded UB221 jeans in a rotation for the last year, giving them about 3 months of effective wear. Since their initial hot soak they have not been washed, nor have they needed any repairs.

The secret to the fades, besides the 21 oz. denim, has been multiple. Kyle has worn them to work, including under his Carhartt‘s, and under a canvas apron. What’s more, he’s worn them to wrestle on the floor with his kids. He’s even picked up some interesting fades from a knife, and a leather Moleskine cover he made. These are well on their way to the Hall of Fade.

DETAILS

  • Name: Unbranded UB221
  • Fabric: 100% cotton selvedge denim
  • Weight: 21 oz.
  • Fit: Tapered
  • Unique Features:
    • Chainstitched hem
    • Blue ear selvedge
  • Available for $118 at Unbranded

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