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Fade of the Day – Iron Heart IH-666Sod (18 Months, 2 Washes, 1 Soak)

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Today’s fade is brought to us by Neihthan Nguyen from Sydney. He wore them daily on the job for about a year and then four days a week later down the line with a total of 2 washes and a single soak.

This devil is extremely dark at the outset thanks to an overdye treatment and the fades are even stronger because of that. Neihthan should be proud of these jeans, especially his honeycombs. They wrap around almost hitting the front of the jean adding a unique characteristic. The fades of his back pockets complement the Iron Heart arcuate and red stitching very nicely. After 18 months, these 18 oz. Iron hearts are something to marvel.

Check Neihthan Nguyen on his instagram for more of his photos.

DETAILS

  • Name: Iron Heart IH-666Sod
  • Fabric: Slubby overdyed selvedge denim
  • Weight: 18 oz.
  • Fit: Slim
  • Unique Features:
    • Lined rear pockets
    • Tucked belt loops
    • Hidden rivets
  • No longer available

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The post Fade of the Day – Iron Heart IH-666Sod (18 Months, 2 Washes, 1 Soak) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.


Filson 256 Classic Briefcase Review – Worn Out

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If you’re into classic cars, you’ve probably wanted a Porsche 911. If watches are your thing, you know you’ve longed for a Rolex Submariner. If you love premium denim…OK, I think we can take the “if” out of this one…you’ve coveted some of Japan’s s slubbiest, rope dyed finery.

No matter what you’re passionate about, there are classics that have earned their iconic status because they are pure distillations of a perfect idea, absent any extraneous details to obscure the truth that a man made object can be more than an assembling of pieces; that an everyday thing can have a soul. The Filson 256 Classic Briefcase certainly fits that bill.

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First things first—I’ll be writing this new column on a regular basis, usually a fresh one once a month. The idea is that more than simply taking a quick test drive in denim, clothing and workwear/heritage brand accessories, they’ll have been Worn Out into the real world by yours truly, and used with wild abandon.

You’ve seen the way we cut high dollar boots in half around here, so you know we ain’t afraid to put items through their paces, and, when necessary, get downright medieval. (Taking a band saw to a pair of Iron Rangers? The horror. The horror!) The subjects of these reviews won’t always be tried and true classics like the 256, but every once in a while I’ll take something revered and make sure it deserves to be chiseled into the Mount Everest of the Rawr world.

The Materials

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My 256 is in Filson’s classic tan, just as God intended. She’s made from 22oz. rugged twill, as Filson puts it, “an extremely durable, water-repellent fabric that maintains its integrity even after heavy use in punishing conditions.” That is putting it mildly. This bag is one for the ages, as it’s showing barely a hint of use after three weeks of in the field (coffee shops, Central Park, and even the notoriously fearsome F subway line).

It resists abrasion like (insert your favorite Terminator reference here), and the bridle leather handles, trim and strap mock my attempt to impose evidence that it’s me that’s using them, and not the other way around. A good friend bought a Filson briefcase made entirely of this leather, and it came with a card that said (warned?) the user should expect a “break in” period of, wait for it, 10 years!

The Details

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Here are the features, right from the Filson’s mouth:

  • Zipper and storm flap closure
  • 16″ W x 12-1/2″ H x 4″ D
  • 4 stow pockets, 2 interior dividers, 1 interior slotted pocket, 2 interior utility pockets, 1 interior patch pocket
  • Abrasion- and water-resistant fabric
  • Removable, adjustable 46″-long Bridle Leather shoulder strap with pad
    • Large inner compartment with dividers
    • Meets standard airline carry-on size requirements
    • Heavy-duty brass zipper adds durability
    • Made with saddle-grade Bridle Leather sourced from North America and tanned in the USA
  • Available for $265 at Huckberry

Now let’s break those down. The zipper is the heaviest of duty brass, with a twill storm flap that snaps (brass) to the body of the bag. The one peculiar thing about this is the tab comes up from the body of the bag to snap into the flap, rather than the tab being attached to the flap and have it snap down into the body of the bag.

Maybe it’s just me, but Filson’s design feels contrary to my fingers. This is a standard approach to flaps and tabs on a number of Filson bags, and I can only assume that with 118 years of doing business under their belt, Filson has done this for a reason. Is it just me? Filson owners, what don’t my fingers understand?

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The Utility

As far as storage goes, this bag has you covered, and long as what you choose to carry is flat. This is the perfect bag for a laptop, notebooks, magazines, journals and things that are generally those shapes and sizes. This is not the perfect bag for those things and a thermos of coffee, and extra shirt and your mitt and softball.

Of course, Filson has all manner of bags for all manner of needs, so ask and ye shall receive. But if you need a briefcase for more traditional briefcase contents, this is the bag that can keep you in order at your meeting while at the same time showing that you probably didn’t arrive in a new Lexus, but a vintage Land Cruiser.

Note-don’t ask me how I know, but should you ever have to pay an international super villain a ransom of a million dollars in $100 bills, you can skip the shiny silver briefcase and use this instead—the cash, unmarked bills of course, will fit with room to spare. Maybe a GPS tracking device!

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Fabric wise…I wish my body was made out of this stuff, as I’m positive I’d get more life out of it. That being said, if you’re dying for some quick distressing, the 256 is more about delayed than instant gratification. And at $265 from Huckberry, this isn’t a purchase–it’s an investment.

Without exaggeration, this is the only briefcase that you’ll ever need (and likely the only of whomever you leave it to in your will). The leather strap is comfortable, due in large part to the fact that Filson, in their infinite wisdom, avoids the mistake of most other makers by ensuring that the width of the strap is sufficient (with a pad, even!), so with a loaded bag you don’t feel like you’re slinging it over your shoulder on razor wire. All of the brass hardware is of the highest quality, even better than the Japanese stuff of wallet and key accessories that are all the rage these days.

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The Conclusion

This bag isn’t flashy. It doesn’t have a built in phone charger, titanium combination lock, hidden roller wheels or any of the kooky doo dads that plague so many bags these days. It doesn’t need it, just as we didn’t need Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull. What was already there was enough, just like this classic 256 that will age gracefully, reveling in every crease and wrinkle, and looking all the better for it. (Yes, Harrison, I’m looking at you…and your plastic surgeon).

The “before” pics here are from Filson, and the “after” pics…well, it’s just too soon. There’s not even close to enough change to see any real wear. However, stay tuned, as I’ll continue to use this bag like I don’t love or respect it (even though I know it knows that I do), and we’ll see how she looks after she’s subtracted to the abuse usually only seen by a member of Charlie Sheen’s harem.

Please, if you’ve got one of these beauties with a few more miles on it, send us the pics and leave your thoughts in the comments section below. And if there are other classics that you’d like given the WORN OUT treatment, let me know and I’ll see what I can do. But if you’d avoid asking me to cut anything in half, I’d sure appreciate it. No matter what my ex-wife says, I’m not a monster.

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The post Filson 256 Classic Briefcase Review – Worn Out appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade of the Day – Left Field Heavy Slub Greaser (5 Months, 4 Soaks)

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East Coast meets West Coast in today’s fade as we look at this pair of Left Field jeans worn by reader Shane Brown of Portland, Oregon. In just five months, Brown has managed to heavily fade these jeans by wearing them to work selling jeans (including Left Field) at Lounge Lizard.

Brown sits on the floor a lot at work, hence the back pocket fades, which include a wallet concho hole. The jeans have had no repairs yet, but are likely due for another wash, Brown says. They’ve already come a long way, as evidenced by the subtle slubbiness popping up all over these well-worn jeans.

For more, follow Brown and his shop on Instagram.

DETAILS

  • Name: Left Field Heavy Slub Greaser
  • Fabric: Unsanforized 100% cotton selvedge denim from Collect Mills
  • Weight: 18 oz.
  • Fit: Straight
  • Unique Features:
    • USA-made Left Field bandanna pocket bags
    • Skull logo on inside rivets and tacks
    • USA-made Universal hardware
  • Available for $275 at Left Field NYC

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The post Fade of the Day – Left Field Heavy Slub Greaser (5 Months, 4 Soaks) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

White Soled White Sneakers – Five Plus One

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Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.


I know what you’re thinking–a fashion website suggesting white sneakers after Labor Day? How ridiculous is that? But let’s be honest, the raw denim community does things quite differently than of the fashion world.

To many denimheads, the attraction of raw denim is that the same article of clothing can be worn daily. With each additional wear, the denim only fits and looks better. And due to the fact that most raws are fairly low-key, wearing the same pair everyday doesn’t draw attention.

These same attributes can be true of white sneakers. Unfortunately, finding the perfect pair of sneakers can be just as hard as finding the correct pair of raws. Whether you want a pair of completely smooth, leather sneakers or a highly texture pair of canvas high-tops, there is something out there for everyone.

1) Common Projects Achilles Mid

CommonProjects

Common Projects are often considered to be the standard for simple, quality leather sneakers. It’s very hard to find fault with their sleek designs, and the construction methods they use are as solid as they come. Each pair is made in Italy out of buttery soft Nappa leather, and they only continue to look and feel better with each wear. Common Projects are very low key, and are only identifiable by the golden serial number stamped at the back of the heel.

Available for $359 from End Clothing.

2) Buttero Low Leather Sneaker

Buttero

If you are only going to own one pair of sneakers, white low-tops are definitely the way to go. They’re classic, versatile, and aren’t going to draw attention if worn multiple days in a row. This pair from Buttero is constructed using vegetable tanned leather and nickel eyelets, but it’s really the dyed white leather laces that pulls the design together. As is the standard for high-quality sneakers, each pair is made in Italy using only the best materials.

Available for $304 from Need Supply.

3) Converse All Star 70 Hi (Optical White)

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You really don’t have to drop hundreds of dollars to own a great pair of sneakers. This pair from Converse is inspired by the classic canvas sneakers of the 1970s, and are just as versatile as high-end sneakers made from Italian calfskin (and for a fraction of the price). They are finished with 8-nickel eyelets and a sturdy rubber toecap.

Available for $85 from Unionmade Goods.

4) Epaulet Full Court High Trainers

Epaulet

High-top basketball sneakers were initially produced by Converse around the 1920s, and they have been steadily increasing in popularity ever since. This pair by Epaulet might not look anything like those original canvas basketball shoes, but they are strikingly similar to leather basketball sneakers produced from the ‘70s onward. And since they are made by Epaulet, they hit the perfect intercept between cost and quality. This pair is primarily constructed using a smooth Italian calfskin, but features a padded grained calfskin around the collar. The uppers are both cemented and stitched to the incredibly popular Margon sole.

Available for $250 from Epaulet.

5) Maison Margiela Low Top Glitter Sneaker (GATs)

Maison Margiela

As their name implies, German Army Trainers were originally produced for members of the German military, although the original designer and year of production are matters of fierce debate. As is the case with many historical designs, the fashion world adopted and reinterpreted it repeatedly. This version of the GAT by Maison Margiela is entirely white, which isn’t the norm — most feature grey suede accents and a tan gum sole. Finally, this pair features a highly textured “glitter” finish, which causes them standout far more than ordinary GATs.

Available for $555 from Neiman Marcus.

Plus One – Nike: Free Inneva Woven Tech SP Mint

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Up until now, the sneakers on this list have been simple, traditional, and timeless. And if you are only going to own one pair of sneakers, any of these previous pairs would be an excellent option. However, if you are just looking to add another pair to your collection or like standing out, this pair of Nikes may be just what you’re looking for. They are constructed using woven strands of nylon of varying widths, which are complimented wonderfully by flat cotton laces. Various portions of the upper are reflective, and the entire upper is cemented to a uniquely shaped wedge sole.

Available for $255 from Tres Bien Shop.

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The post White Soled White Sneakers – Five Plus One appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade of the Day – Naked & Famous Weird Guy Indigo Selvedge (6 Months, 2 Washes)

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There’s no denying the fact that over the past few years Naked & Famous have become a staple in the raw denim community, and it’s easy to see why on this Fade of the Day. Submitted by Jihyun Jung from Korea, these Weird Guy Indigo Selvedge jeans have been rockin’ in the free world for only 6 months and already show promising signs of reaching denim glory. At this point I think I would be jumping for joy too.

DETAILS

  • Name: Naked & Famous Weird Guy Indigo Selvedge
  • Fabric: 100% cotton Japanese selvedge denim
  • Weight: 13 oz.
  • Fit: Tapered
  • Unique Features:
    • Selvedge coin pocket
  • Available for $135 at Tate + Yoko

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The post Fade of the Day – Naked & Famous Weird Guy Indigo Selvedge (6 Months, 2 Washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Taylor Stitch x Rancourt Moto Boot

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Are you sick of Aldens and Red Wings? Yeah, neither are we. However, if you like options, The Moto Boot is a collaboration between San Francisco’s Taylor Stitch and Maine’s Rancourt that you might want to consider.

Part of Taylor Stitch’s Moto Collection, it’s made of a full-grain chrome-tanned steerhide in a handsome whiskey color and it’s got pretty much all the details that make for a stylish and long-lasting boot. Standing at 8-inches, it’s fashioned with 6 antique brass eyelets, 2 antique brass speed hooks, pull-tabs, and double-layer cap toes. The Moto Boot sits atop a Vibram 430 mini-lug sole attached via blake welt construction and a storm welt to keep your little piggies dry when you’re hauling ass on your hog through the rain.

With their crowd-funding model, some items might not make it to production if they’re not fully funded. But that’s not a concern with these collaborative boots because, as of now, they’re already nearly 500% funded. You can get in on the action for $398 by midnight September 11th at Taylor Stitch.

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The post Taylor Stitch x Rancourt Moto Boot appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fifthrequisite Jeans – Thai Raw Denim

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“Eat, Drink, Sleep, Sex”, those are the four main needs of a human being according to Thai raw denim brand Fifthrequisite. There is, however, another requirement; a fifth requisite, if you will. And that is the need to wear really cool jeans.

From their inception in 2009, Fifthrequisite has sought to make “Neo Vintage Jeans” that “allows you to show your personality, and live your dreams.” Now, I know what you’re thinking–is this another brand that seeks to tap into your “inner wanderer“? But the people behind Fifthrequisite have produced a unique line that combines traditional and vintage design elements into super skinny cuts.

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How skinny? Well their slimmest Giselle model tapers all the way down to a 5.625 inch leg opening on a size 25. That’s right, slim guys and unisex raw denim fans, these jeans are for you!

Despite the aggressive tapering, Fifthrequisite still builds in a variety of neat details like gold-hued metal Orichalcum buttons, which they describe as, “considered second only to gold in value and the strongest metal, which used to produce sword in past (sic).” They also have a circular leather patch, the curved pocket arcs, the pocketbags are made of Japanese linen, and the denim is all from Japan as well.

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Despite their Thai origins, only some of the jeans are produced in Thailand. One of their flagship models is the Hector, which has a more straight leg 501 type cut and is entirely made in Japan out of a 13oz. redline selvedge denim. Other models, like the Giselle, are more intended for unisex wear and have a broader size range. The Giselle also has a 2% stretch to it to accommodate such a slim fit.

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Also, these jeans are known to fade pretty decently as well. This might just be a side effect of what Southeast Asia is known to do to a pair of jeans, but check out this pair of stretch Giselles after one year of wear.

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Image via Denimfuture

So if you feel like you feel like your needs for eating, drinking, sleeping, and sex are filled but you’re still unsatisfied, you can check out Fifthrequisite on their site or at their North American stockist, Chainstitches.

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The post Fifthrequisite Jeans – Thai Raw Denim appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade of the Day – Ludwig Schröder Cowhide Belt (1 Year, 3 Months)

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I scream, you scream, we all scream for…natural leather belt patinas? Today, we have a Ludwig Schröder cowhide belt submission by Canadian reader Michael Rechberger, who has taken this featured piece seemingly on a world tour.

In the year and six months Michael has had his belt, it’s survived a student exchange program from Berlin, where it was bought, to Amsterdam, Paris, Cote d’Azur, and Italy. The belt has also vactioned in Mexico, and spends most of its time in Canada where Michael is active in biking as well as cooking at a vegan restaurant. All these activities have helped to develop an amazing patina on this belt.    

DETAILS

  • Name: Ludwig Schröder Cowhide Belt
  • Fabric: Veg-tan cowhide
  • Unique Features:
    • Saddle stitching
    • Silver Colored Solid-Brass buckle
  • Available for 73EUR (~81USD) at Manufactum

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The post Fade of the Day – Ludwig Schröder Cowhide Belt (1 Year, 3 Months) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.


Rogue Territory FW15 Flannel Shirting

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It might not technically be fall yet, but that doesn’t mean you can’t prepare for it. You can start with the recently released set of shirts from Rogue Territory. There’s many a flannel for this fall/winter ’15 drop, some of which channel old school Big Mac vibes, all of which sport the workwear-inspired chainstitch run-off detail.

There are two new versions of the Utility Shirt this time around, both made in a Japanese 7 oz. brushed flannel with grey horn buttons, contrast yoke fabric, and reinforced elbows. Two versions of the Jumper Shirt come to us both in mid-weight flannels with classic plaids that are both neppy and slubby. The pearl cateye buttons are a nice touch, too. The three new Western Shirt fabrics are based off of vintage plaid flannels and weigh in at a hefty 10oz. They’re fixed with black pearl snaps for the plackets and dual flap pockets which have hidden pockets within them. If the grey plaid version is your jam, you should know that it’s a collaboration with Standard & Strange and is on pre-order at the moment. Not so fast, dude.

This is by no means Rogue Territory’s full lineup for this next season, but it gives us a pretty good teaser of what’s to come. The shirts range from $195 to $225 and you can find them at Rogue Territory.

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The post Rogue Territory FW15 Flannel Shirting appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Studio D’Artisan D4376 Denim Jacket

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The Trucker Jacket has been lauded as a staple of Americana and has gone through three types throughout its history. The Type III is certainly the most ubiquitous today, while the Type I and Type II are either vintage pieces or reproductions worn by the savvy denimhead.

The latest from Studio D’Artisan is more of Type 1.5. It’s made of a 15.5 oz. selvedge denim with a Type I front that includes double pleats and a single riveted chest pocket. However, it forgoes the expected rear cinch and instead uses side tabs and buttons like that of a Type II.

Get your piece of hybrid history for ¥ 27,864 ($233USD) at Studio D’Artisan.

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The post Studio D’Artisan D4376 Denim Jacket appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade of the Day – Gustin Okayama Standard (13 Months, Unknown Washes, 1 Soak)

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Gustin as a company is doing something that not many others do and it’s met with mixed feelings. Gustin, for those who don’t know, sell their jeans at a whole sale price through a crowdfunding model. This model allows you to buy jeans that use nice fabrics for a cheaper price. Though their prices are lower, the fades don’t necessarily correlate with that small price tag.

Today’s feature, the Gustin Okayama Standard, comes to us from Taylor Ostberg of Utah. Ostberg wore this piece everyday for 13 months and his pockets show the time. Upgrading to a bigger phone increased the wear on his left pocket which, in turn, has warranted some repairs. And his jeans are all the better for it.

Keep wearing and stay raw, Taylor!

DETAILS

  • Name: Gustin Okayama Standard
  • Fabric: Japanese selvedge
  • Weight: 14.5 oz.
  • Fit: Slim
  • Unique Features:
    • Contrast Stitching
    • Selvedge detail belt loop
  • Available at Gustin for $81

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The post Fade of the Day – Gustin Okayama Standard (13 Months, Unknown Washes, 1 Soak) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade Friday – Iron Heart 25oz. Mega Beatle Buster (2 years 3 months, 0 washes)

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Some call him Swiss Jeans Freak, some call him Jeansus, we simply call him Ruedi. Ruedi Karrer is a 56-year-old geologist from Zurich and he is probably the most devoted raw denim fan fading today. If you’ve spent any time on Instagram or in the comments section of this site, you’ve seen him pop-up for “hardest core denim evos” that “deserve to live forever” and which he begs will never be washed.

As mentioned above, Ruedi never washes his jeans and the fade reflects it. The super contrasted whiskers and combs have blown out in multiple spots. The crotch has required several repairs, but the patina and the overall fade is nothing short of spectacular. For those with the strongest possible fades, it takes a dedication like no other, and that’s Ruedi to a T.

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart Mega Beatle Buster
  • Fabric: 100% cotton Japanese raw selvedge denim
  • Weight: 25oz.
  • Fit: Slim Straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Special Popeye branded leather patch
    • Limited to 119 pairs
    • Hidden knife pocket
  • No longer available from Iron Heart

In his spare time, Ruedi runs the Jeansmuseum of Heaviest Fadings, which features over 12,000 pairs of worn and new denim pieces. His obsession runs deep, in his own words:

I was born Sept. 8, 1959 in a remote alpine 40 people village in the swiss alps in a poor 12 person family. After receiving 2 Levi’s jeans in a cloth donation parcel at the early 70-ies I got raw denim addict (sic). I’m wearing my raw denim gear (jeans and denim jackets) every day and in multiple layers during cold winter seasons and in 3 steps as office outdoor and work pants. Also for skiing, climbing mountains, and for traveling and daily bicycling.

I never ever wash or soak since I love the unwashed raw denim color tone much more then the royal blue color tone you get on washed items. All raw denim heads shall wear the hell out if their raw denim stuff as long as possible but never ever throwing them away. You can give your well loved but retired raw denim projects an eternal life at the Jeansmuseum at any time. With displaying the power of natural denim evolution on as many as possible samples to the visitors, the raw denim spirit shall be kept alive.

Naturally, the founder of the Jeansmuseum has to have some fairly beastly fades for himself, and Ruedi’s evo does not disappoint. The pair in question is a 25oz. set of Iron Heart Mega Beatle Busters, a collaboration for the second Heavyweight Denim World Championships.

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The post Fade Friday – Iron Heart 25oz. Mega Beatle Buster (2 years 3 months, 0 washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

The Sales Compendium: September 11

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Sales come and go, which is why we’ve dug deep to compile a list of all the current special offers. This near-exhaustive list is posted every Friday, so if you nothing catches your eye this week check back with us next week.

JEANS

3Sixteen CS-100X Straight; photos courtesy of Nifty Do

3Sixteen CS-100X Straight; photos courtesy of Nifty Do

3SIXTEEN

A.P.C.

BALDWIN

BIG JOHN

ETERNAL

HEAD PORTER

IMOGENE + WILLIE

L.C. KING

LEFT FIELD

LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING

NAKED & FAMOUS

NOBLE

POINTER

RALEIGH DENIM

RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL

RISING SUN

ROGUE TERRITORY

SPELLBOUND

TELLASON

  • Surplus $50
    • This is a grab-bag type sale. Many items will be raw jeans, but this is not guaranteed. Chinos, cords, etc. are all possibilities.

UNBRANDED

WALLACE & BARNES

PANTS

Apolis Selvedge Twill Chino; photos courtesy of Steven Alan

Apolis Selvedge Twill Chino; photos courtesy of Steven Alan

ACNE

APOLIS ACTIVISM

BALL and BUCK

BAND of OUTSIDERS

CARHARTT WIP

CLOSED

DANA LEE

GROWN & SEWN

J.W. BRINE

MASON’S

NORSE PROJECTS

OUR LEGACY

RALEIGH

ROGUE TERRITORY

SAVE KHAKI

STEVEN ALAN

UNIVERSAL WORKS

WINGS + HORNS

LONG SLEEVE BUTTON SHIRTS

Engineered Garments Nineteenth Century BD Shirt Foulard Patchwork Print (Navy); photos courtesy of Pegg and Son

Engineered Garments Nineteenth Century BD Shirt Foulard Patchwork Print (Navy); photos courtesy of Pegg and Son

ALEX MILL

A.P.C.

BALL and BUCK

BAND of OUTSIDERS

BARBOUR

BUZZ RICKSON

CABOURN

COAST-WIDE

ENGINEERED GARMENTS

FAHERTY

FOLK

FRENCH TROTTERS

GITMAN VINTAGE BROTHERS

HAMILTON 1883

HAN KJOBENHVN

HARTFORD

THE HILL-SIDE

LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING

MATTHEW MILLER

NAKED AND FAMOUS

NORSE PROJECTS

OPENING CEREMONY

OUR LEGACY

PAULROSE PRODUCTS

POST OVERALLS

RAG & BONE

RALEIGH DENIM

ROGUE TERRITORY

STEVEN ALAN

UNITED DRY STOCK GOODS

SHORT SLEEVE BUTTON SHIRTS

Gitman Brothers Vintage New York Short; photos courtesy of East Dane

Gitman Brothers Vintage New York Short; photos courtesy of East Dane

8.15 AUGUST FIFTEENTH

A.P.C.

APOLIS

BAND of OUTSIDERS

CABOURN

ENGINEERED GARMENTS

EPAULET by AVANTI

FAHERTY

FOLK

FRENCH TROTTERS

GITMAN VINTAGE BROTHERS

THE HILL-SIDE

NEW ENGLAND SHIRT COMPANY

RAG & BONE

ROGUE TERRITORY

STEVEN ALAN

UNITED DRY STOCK GOODS

WINGS + HORNS

YAECA

HENLEYS, POLOS, TEES, and POPOVERS

Band of Outsiders Striped Popover; photos courtesy of East Dane

Band of Outsiders Black/White Popover; photos courtesy of East Dane

BAND of OUTSIDERS

BARBOUR

BATTENWEAR

BILLY REID

CLOSED

DANA LEE

EPAULET by GITMAN BROTHERS

GITMAN VINTAGE BROTHERS

NORSE PROJECTS

OUR LEGACY

RAG & BONE

REIGNING CHAMP

REMI RELIEF

UNITED DRY STOCK GOODS

WALLACE & BANRES

WINGS + HORNS

SWEATSHIRTS and HOODIES

Buzz Rickson Thermal (Olive); photos courtesy of Nifty Do

Buzz Rickson Thermal (Olive); photos courtesy of Nifty Do

ACNE

ARPENTEUR

BOY+GIRL

BUZZ RICKSON

CABOURN

CAPE HEIGHTS

CLOSED

ENGINEERED GARMENTS

EPAULET

FAHERTY

IMOGENE + WILLIE

LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING

NAKED and FAMOUS

NANAMIC

NOBLE DENIM

NORSE PROJECTS

OUR LEGACY

REIGNING CHAMP

REMI RELIEF

VELVA SHEEN

SWEATERS

APC Speckled Sweater (Burgundy); photos courtesy of Steven Alan

APC Speckled Sweater (Burgundy); photos courtesy of Steven Alan

A.P.C.

BAND of OUTSIDERS

BEAUTY & YOUTH

BILLY REID

CARHARTT WIP

FOUR HORSEMEN SUPPLIES

FRENCH TROTTERS

NORSE PROJECTS

OUR LEGACY

S.N.S. HERNING

STEVEN ALAN

UNITED DRY STOCK GOODS

JACKETS and COATS

Golden Bear Leather Baseball Jacket (White/Black); photos courtesy of East  Dane

Golden Bear Leather Baseball Jacket (White/Black); photos courtesy of East Dane

A.P.C.

ANATOMICA

APOLIS ACTIVISM

ARPENTEUR

ARC’TERYX VEILANCE

BALL and BUCK

BARBOUR

BATTENWEAR

BLEU de PANAME

BOY+GIRL

BROOKLYN TAILOR

CABOURN

CAPE HEIGHTS

CARHARTT WIP

EDWIN

EFILEVOL

ENGINEERED GARMENTS

EPAULET

ESEMPLARE

FIDELITY SPORTSWEAR

FJFALLRAVEN

FOLK

FRENCH TROTTERS

GOLDEN BEAR

L.C. KING

MONITALY

NAKED and FAMOUS

NANAMICA

NEIGHBORHOOD

NORSE PROJECTS

OUR LEGACY

OVADIA

PAUL SMITH

RAG & BONEV

ROGUE TERRITORY

SAVE KHAKI

SO FAR

SPIEWAK

STEVEN ALAN

STONE ISLAND

UNITED DRY STOCK GOODS

VICTORINOX

WALLACE & BARNES

WINGS + HORNS

WON HUNDRED

VESTS

Cabourn Short Oxford Vest (Charcoal); photos courtesy of Cabourn

Cabourn Short Oxford Vest (Charcoal); photos courtesy of Cabourn

ENGINEERED GARMENTS

CABOURN

MINOTAUR

MONITALY

POST OVERALLS

SAVE KHAKI

WINGS + HORNS

SHOES, BOOTS, and SNEAKERS

Tricker's Black Suede Chukka; photos courtesy of Superdenim

Tricker’s Black Suede Chukka; photos courtesy of Superdenim

ALDEN

ALFRED SARGENT

BUTTERO

CHIPPEWA

COMMON PROJECTS

DANNER

GRENSON

LOAKE

MARK MCNAIRY

NEW ENGLAND OUTERWEAR CO.

OAK STREET BOOTMAKERS

PAUL SMITH

PISTOLERO

QUODDY

RANCOURT

RED WING

THOM BROWNE

TIMBERLAND BOOT COMPANY

TRICKER’S

WOLVERINE

YUKETEN

ACCESSORIES (BAGS, BELTS, ACCESORIES)

Eagle of Independence Washed Leather Belt Dual Prong (Black); photos courtesy of Blue Owl

Eagle of Independence Washed Leather Belt Dual Prong (Black); photos courtesy of Blue Owl

CARHARTT WIP

CORTER

EAGLE OF INDEPENDENCE by MR. OLIVE

EPAULET

MONIKER GOODS

NORSE PROJECTS

TANNER GOODS

VERMILYEA PELLE

AUSTRALIAN DENIM SALES

Tenryo Indigo/Black; photos courtesy of Corlection Store

Tenryo Indigo/Black; photos courtesy of Corlection Store

R.J.B. CO BY FLAT HEAD

TENDER CO

TENRYO

EUROPEAN DENIM SALES

Norse Projects Slim Denim Raw Indigo; photos courtesy of Cultizm

Norse Projects Slim Denim Raw Indigo; photos courtesy of Cultizm

BYBEATLE

CABOURN

EDWIN

EVISU

IRON HEART

KAPITAL

MOMOTARO

NORSE PROJECT

NUDIE

POST OVERALLS

SPELLBOUND

UNITED DRY STOCK GOODS

WOMEN’S

Tellason “Old” Bird Fit; photos courtesy of Tellason

Tellason “Old” Bird Fit; photos courtesy of Tellason

IMOGENE + WILLIE

MOMOTARO

TELLASON

memento

The post The Sales Compendium: September 11 appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

The Weekly Rundown: Snake Oil Provisions Launches New Weekly Video Series

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There’s a ton of great stuff out there. And, while we would love to cover it all, we thought it best to just give it to you straight. After a hiatus, The Weekly Rundown is back with the latest happenings from around the web.

What were your favorite stories of the week?

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The post The Weekly Rundown: Snake Oil Provisions Launches New Weekly Video Series appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade of the Day – A.P.C. Petit New Standard (1 Year, 0 Washes)

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When embarking on a raw denim journey, A.P.C. is often the one brand that’s there in the very beginning. With today’s Fade of the Day, a pair of Petit New Standard jeans, we remember why.

Though they’re by no means the most dazzling jeans, the A.P.C. denim fabric is unmistakable and full of character. Gabriel Rios of Mexico has been wearing his pair for a year now and has yet to take them to water. The result is that beautiful grey-ish blue hue giving way to the natural cotton color underneath. The fabric’s texture really shows, though it’s not slubby, and he’s managed to get some promising honey combs, whiskers, and stacks.

DETAILS

  • Name: A.P.C. Petit New Standard
  • Fabric: 100% cotton selvedge denim
  • Weight: 12 oz.
  • Fit: Slim straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Felled inseams
    • Tucked belt loops
  • Available for $185 at Need Supply Co.

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The post Fade of the Day – A.P.C. Petit New Standard (1 Year, 0 Washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.


FDMTL x Vans Boro Patch Sneakers

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The beauty of boro cannot be overstated. But it can be enhanced. Merging Japanese textile history with the quintessential California cool sneaker, FDMTL and Vans have teamed up to produce two sneakers in that precious boro fabric.

These sneakers are really made to break down beautifully over time. The indigo will crock and fade, the fabric will rip and tear. Ultimately, we hope these sneakers will encourage people to keep the boro tradition alive by repairing their sneakers, adding to the patches and sashiko along the way. Fade Friday, anyone?

The bad news? And yes, there’s bad news. These are not available outside of Japan, and even that’s just a pre-order for early 2016. Get your Google translate ready and your proxy skills on point because we’re pretty sure these are going to sell out fast.

You can get your pair reserved for 16,200 JPY ($135USD) at FDMTL’s website.

Images courtesy of Catii Tokyo.

The post FDMTL x Vans Boro Patch Sneakers appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade of the Day – Levi’s 501 STF (9 Months, 5 Washes, 3 Soaks)

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We’ve always said that the Levi’s 501 STF is one of the best and most affordable ways to try out not only raw denim, but also unsanforized denim. Thomas Tompich of Hungary got his legs into a pair of these classic jeans, and, after 9 months, is today’s Fade of the Day.

With a more frequent and regular wash and soak regimen, Thomas’ 501’s have an overall vintage fade. The shade gives off a vibrant bright blue that’s often characteristic of jeans you’d find in a thrift store. His whiskers are many, but the best part might be the roping at the hem. Not only do we see the striated fades, but they’re even starting to rip with each striation. Sometimes it’s the little things that add so much.

DETAILS

  • Name: Levi’s 501 STF
  • Fabric: 100% cotton unsanforized raw denim
  • Weight: 12.5 oz.
  • Fit: Straight
  • Unique Features:
    • Felled inseams
    • Paper patch
  • Available for $47 at Levi’s 

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The post Fade of the Day – Levi’s 501 STF (9 Months, 5 Washes, 3 Soaks) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Badlands – Working Titles

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When Badlands was released in 1973, no one had seen anything like it. It’s not that the story was unique, renegade lovers on the run from the law was familiar territory for Hollywood (Arthur Penn’s classic Bonnie & Clyde had come out only 6 years earlier) but in director Terrance Malick’s hands the treatment of this material was anything but routine.

He was a first time director and former Rhodes scholar who, after several poorly received scripts in Hollywood (including the produced but unreleased Deadhead Miles), was determined to see his writing done justice. He financed the film with $25,000 of his own money and what he could cobble together from small time investors.

The film was Inspired by real life serial killer Charles Starkweather, a James Dean obsessed teen psychopath who went on a sensationalized killing spree with his girlfriend in the late 1950s. Malick takes the basic elements of that story and turns them into a dreamy meditation on the American landscape, his direction giving as much attention to wind blowing in grass as it does to grisly murders.

The protagonists, Kit and Holly–played brilliantly by Martin Sheen and Sissy Spacek–are seemingly barely aware of the carnage they inflict, for them it is a wild adventure or fairytale (further emphasized by the soundtracks dreamy chimes and Holly’s plainspoken narration). The film was beautifully shot, with widescreen vistas full of oil rigs and desolate landscapes, which often dwarf the couple’s high speed escapes.

Despite the purposefully detached and artistic quality, Badlands struck a nerve upon release; even overshadowing Martin Scorsese’s debut Mean Streets. Reception was so positive that Warner Bros. purchased the film for 3 times it’s $500,000 budget, it remains to this day the most accessible and straightforward of the director’s films and an American classic.

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The clothing style of the film is pure Americana. Kit’s uniform is a Type II Levi’s denim jacket (the one with the unusually placed mid-chest pockets) paired with a slubby white T-shirt and straight leg jeans while Holly wears an oversized Oxford shirt that looks like it was borrowed from Kit with (again) straight leg jeans, white bobby socks and some black penny loafers.

This was the casual outfit of a generation of post-war youth and in 2015 you can’t help but admire it’s timeless simplicity and practicality. As a costuming choice, it also saves the film from looking too strongly like a period piece. While most films set in the past will place emphasis on it’s otherness by including distinctive fashion from the era, the fact is that most everyday people would be wearing quite modest clothing far from the cutting edge looks of major city centers that might dominate our imagination.

Badlands sidesteps this by using working clothes that in many ways have remained the same decades after the films release. As Malick himself said, “I tried to keep the 1950s to a bare minimum. Nostalgia is a powerful feeling; it can drown out anything. I wanted the picture to set up like a fairy tale, outside time.”

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KIT CARRUTHERS

Kit’s look is pure Americana inspired by James Dean. Especially nice is the short fairly boxy cut of the Type II jacket with it’s generous pockets, a transitional design between the original workwear and the later trucker style fits. For his tee I went with a viscose/hemp blend from Jungmaven as the texture in the film is similarly slubby. Albam’s new straight leg jeans have a nice no-frills 1950’s quality. A good broad ring belt is available from Makr and finally I settled for these A.P.C. zip chelsea boots over Kit’s cowboy boots (assuming more of us are working in front of laptops than in feedlots) it should create a similar silhouette and actually is pretty close to what James Dean himself would have worn at the time.

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Levi’s Type II jacket in Rigid

Made in the USA and available for $395 at Brooklyn Denim Co.

Jungmaven Original hemp tee

Made in the USA and available for $35 at Jungmaven

Albam Straight Leg Jean

Made in England and available for £115 at Albam

Makr English Bridle Leather ring belt 

Made in the USA and available for $55 at Makr 

A.P.C Classic Boots 

Made in Portugal and available for $545 at A.P.C.

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The post Badlands – Working Titles appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade of the Day – Rising Sun Straight Razor (3 years, 3 washes)

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One year, one wash. That’s the routine for this pair of well-faded Rising Sun & Co. jeans. Today’s fade comes from reader Isaac Paul of Los Angeles who has worn this pair of Straight Razor jeans almost every day for the past three years.

Paul says he avoided washing and soaking these jeans when he first got them. A coffee spill, which bears a permanent stain, forced Paul to give the jeans a wash at the 8-month mark. Since then, it’s been one wash a year for the jeans. The pockets are frayed, the inner waist band patch is tearing away, and the back pocket selvedge gusset is prying itself free. Could another year of wear land them in a Fade Friday?

DETAILS

  • Name: Rising Sun & Co. Straight Razor
  • Fabric: Cone Mills 100% cotton selvedge denim
  • Weight: 14 oz.
  • Fit: Slim
  • Unique Features:
    • Logo apex stitching on back pockets and coin pocket
    • Expandable gusset, selvedge back pockets
    • Aged leather patch
    • Two-prong clinch copper rivets
  • Available for $275 at Rising Sun Jeans

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The post Fade of the Day – Rising Sun Straight Razor (3 years, 3 washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Taylor Stitch $98 Jeans Return

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Once again filling the sub-100 dollar market for raw denim, Taylor Stitch has brought back their double-digit price point jeans. This time around it’s a 14.25 oz. Cone Mills non-selvedge, sanforized denim offered in both their democratic fit and slim fit. They may not be the most eye-catching jean, but they’re a solid option for those who want American-made jeans that use solid American-made denim. It’s got tucked belt loops, a button fly, and YKK shanks and rivets. A no-frills, solidly built pair of jeans, these hit the spot for those who like nice things, but aren’t self-described denimheads.

The one frill it does have would be the custom pocket bags which depict a map of San Francisco. You can grab yours for just $98 at Taylor Stitch.

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The post Taylor Stitch $98 Jeans Return appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

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