Courtesy of Evan Senter of San Fransisco, today’s Fade of the Day showcases a very well-aged pair of three-year-old Pure Blue Japan XX-011’s. Having worn them for almost a year before washing them for the first time, they’ve since gone through an unknown number of washes, which may explain the severe indigo loss.

Being “beat to hell”, as Evan describes them, gives these jeans amazing character. Almost all of the original indigo has faded, but what we do have are some pronounced honeycombs and streaky fades. The lap and knees are nearly white and coupled with the minor repairs, what we’re left with is a pair of raw denim jeans that you make your own. The formula is simple, folks: wear, wash, repeat!

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For those ready to take the hypothetical leap into the world of coveralls, Lee 101 has got you covered head to toe with their latest Pilotsuit Overall. Originally developed as a commission by the US Army during WWII, they revisited and updated this iconic suit with utility pockets all over, and a unique 10oz. covert cotton jelt fabric created with vintage inspired threads giving it that distinct vintage workwear feel. Tarnished brass zippers paired with tonal herringbone twill tape and adjustable button tabs on the waist bring the piece together nicely.

The only bummer is – like much of Lee 101 – it’s only available in Europe currently.

Available at Lee.

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For the first time ever, Indonesian denim brand Warpweft Co. is releasing a jean constructed with Japanese denim woven exclusively for them. They are calling this release the Superior Ten Special, and it features an interesting 15oz. unsanforized denim woven in Okayama with a rope-dyed deep indigo warp and special technique rope-dyed weft to match. The results are very blue indeed, with tonal stitching throughout and stealth arcs, with the only real light pops being the blue line selvedge detail and deer skin leather patch.

The pocket bags and lining feature some more WWco indigo handiwork in the form of a natural indigo dyed patterned fabric, and the hardware was developed through YKK Japan. This release marks a big milestone for the brand and they are keeping it special by only making 70 pairs, so act fast if you’re feeling these heavy blues.

Currently available to pre-order for $135 at Warpweft Co. They will even throw in a free gift!

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Fades are here little ones, and are they heavy today. Today’s fade is a pair of Iron Heart 634SR that were kindly submitted by reader Fachri Rahadi of Indonesia. Just over a year, 21/23 oz. denim, and some Indonesia heat have produced some highly contrasty fades in just over a year. Fachri says he didn’t do anything else too special in these jeans, and they haven’t needed repairs yet, and why fix it if it ain’t broke?

Typical of Iron Heart denim, these jeans have evolved into some very deep royal blues, with high contrast on the whiskers and honeycombs, the latter of which are fraying in a most satisfying way. We’re looking forward to featuring these again in another year!

The post Fade of the Day – Iron Heart 634SR (1 Year, 3 Months, 2 Washes, 1 Soak) appeared first on Heddels.com.

Ah collaborations; the sweet time when two (or more) like-minded brands can come together and create something that exemplifies the best of everyone involved. We recently had the opportunity to go behind the scenes of an upcoming project between two stalwarts of American manufacturing: shirtmaker Gitman Bros. Vintage and footwear brand PF Flyers.

Over the course of two years, the brands collaborated on a version of PF’s Made in USA Center Hi sewn from Gitman’s domestic “Seed to Sew” indigo denim fabric. In the video above, we chat with GBV’s President Chris Olberding and PF’s head of Global Merchandise Manager Chris Tobias about what each brand brought to the table as well as visit both Gitman’s factory in Ashland, Pennsylvania and the New Balance factory in Boston, Massachusetts where the shoes were made.

The Gitman Bros. Vintage x PF Flyers shoes themselves will be available from PF stockists on September 1.

Shot and directed by Ryan Lindow, produced by Nick Coe and David Shuck.

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If you find that you spend most of your day wishing you had some more selvedge lines to show off to your peers, Naked & Famous is here to let you know you can have it up top too with their new Indigo Selvedge Shirts.

With a long and slim fit, this is an interesting interpretation of a classic workwear-inspired button down shirt featuring simple details like a button collar and single chest pocket. It’s offered in three colorways, all of which are comprised of Japanese fabric cut and sewn in the oldest existing shirting factory in North America which, if nothing else, is at least a cool conversation point.

Available for $154 at Tate & Yoko.

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Fikri Arifin hasn’t owned and wore these jeans for no more than nine months and they’ve already faded to a surprising state. With only one sea wash, the heavyweight, unsanforized Sage Highlander’s have lost plenty of indigo, so much so that one might assume they’ve been worn for a much longer period of time.

No matter though, they’re still an impressive sight to be seen. Stacked honeycombs speak to how much wear Fikri puts into his Highlanders, while the deep, uneven lap fades and whiskers are further evidence to the rigours of life in the tropical heat of Indonesia.

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Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.

Summer is coming to a close, and that means boot season will soon be upon us. For better or for worse, all our shoe collections are growing; and once you have basic brown and black footwear out of the way, where do you go from there?

Luckily, there are many versatile colors that aren’t quite as common. Enter grey. It might not be the first color you consider when you are searching for your next pair of boots, but there are a quite a lot of options available.

1) Common Projects: Chelsea Boot in Dark Grey Suede

Common Projects might be known for their sneakers, but that doesn’t mean their boots are anything to scoff at. These Dark Grey Suede Chelsea Boots are sleek, simple, and their construction quality may very well surprise you. This pair features a natural crepe sole, which makes these shoes stand out a bit more than some others on this list.

Available for $517 from Need Supply.

2) Red Wing: Iron Ranger in Charcoal Rough ‘n’ Tough

Red Wing’s Iron Rangers are one of the most recognizable work boots on the market, and for good reasons: it’s simple, well designed, and very well made for the price (check out why they’re our top pick for entry level boots). Over the past couple of years, Red Wing has listened to consumer comments about the product and recently released Iron Rangers with lug soles due to complaints about traction, as well as begin to manufacture the style in more varied colorways, such as Charcoal Rough ‘n’ Tough.

Available for $320 from Animal Traffic PDX.

3) Yuketen: Flesh Out Perla Chukka

Yuki Matsuda’s Yuketen is known for doing things just a little bit differently, but even when they’re whipping up something fairly tame, they do so with quality and elan. Such is the case with their high top camp moc chukkas, made from a flesh-out Horween leather and with a siped boat shoe sole, this “boot” may not fare well for four season wear, but it should handle the first three just fine.

Available for $286 at Yuketen.

4) Truman Boot: Iceberg Kudu

Truman Boot has only been around for a year and a half, but they’ve already made a name for themselves among footwear enthusiasts. Their shoes are made to order, so you aren’t going to be getting your boots overnight, but that does allow you custom certain boots features to your liking. Their Iceberg Kudu boots use leather from the South African Greater Kudu, which is known for being both dense and soft.

Available for $500 from Truman Boot.

5) Dayton: Service Boot in Charcoal Nubuck

Dayton’s Charcoal Nubuck Service Boot is often considered to be their signature boot. Although service boots often feel a bit workwear-y, the charcoal nubuck leather really helps bring this boot into the realm of streetwear. These boots are often seen blacked-out, with black edges, stitching, and eyelets; however, Dayton is another made-to-order bootmaker, so you can customize your boots to your hearts content.

Available for $419 from Dayton.

Plus One – Enzo Bonafé: Button Boots in Grey/Black

Alright, I cheated — these boots aren’t fully grey. But Enzo Bonafé’s Button Boots were far too unique to pass by; they are a classic design, seen here made of black calfskin and grey calf suede. They might not become your everyday boots, heck they might not even become your go-to dress boots, but they’ll certainly add a little something extra to anyone’s wardrobe.

Available for $925 from Leffot.

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Pure Blue Japan is taking a journey in the denim time machine with their latest release, the XX-013-VTG. If the double X’s and “VTG” moniker didn’t give it away, this is the brands interpretation of what is safely recognized as the most iconic pair of jeans in history, the original Levi’s 501.

They knew that if they were going for authentic, they needed the denim to match, and developed an exclusive 14oz. unsanforized Japanese denim featuring PBJ’s signature super slub, which means a more balanced and tight, even weave like those old jeans you find in your grandparent’s attic.

The least vintage part of this release is the fit, a modest slim taper with a mid rise and narrow leg openings. Other details include a pink selvedge ID, lambskin leather patch, and custom PBJ hardware.

Available for $230 at Okayama Denim.

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Olivier Gandon bought this pair of Momotaro 0305-50 jeans back in 2014, and it would be an understatement to say he’s put them to good use since. Much of the dye has been washed out in all the right places leading to frame-worthy fade patterns.

The subtle whiskering and deep lap fades are matched by well-defined honeycombs and seat fading. Having diligently documented his jeans’ history on the pocket bag, Olivier has cleverly kept a record of the three washes and two soaks. As with any pair of jeans that receive daily use over two years, repairs are in order to give them another life.

In this case, the crotch and rear pockets have been patched with excess denim from a previous hem alteration. What we’re left with is a solid pair of jeans that show individual character which will surely develop even further with more wear and repair.

The post Fade of the Day – Momotaro 0305-50 18 oz. (2 Years, 4 Months, 3 Washes, 2 Soaks) appeared first on Heddels.com.

Masters of mysterious indigo Tanuki are back and darker than ever. The Japanese denim label popped up seemingly out of nowhere last month and now they’ve returned with a second drop of double indigo dark weft jeans.

The new fabric comes in both their IDS1 (slim) and IDT1 (tapered) fits and it only comes in raw, unsanforized, so size accordingly. Aside from the color swap, all the other Tanuki deets are there: hidden rivets, “Ni” stitching on the back pocket, and it all comes in a custom carry case.

You can be a knight of Ni for $285 at Blue Owl.

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They say that confession is good for the soul, so here goes Heddels readers:

I’ve never been a boot guy. Not even a little, but Heaven knows that I’ve tried.

Before you judge me too harshly, know that on two separate occasions, with clear eyes and a full heart, I gave months (and pieces of my actual feet) to a pair of Red Wing Iron Rangers. They showed no mercy (instead of me breaking in the boots, the boots broke my feet). And this made me sad. (No, literally, they really hurt a lot.) Like many of you, I think that little goes better with a pair of beautifully broken in jeans than an equally beautifully.

Like many of you, I believe that little goes better with a pair of beautifully broken-in jeans than an equally beautifully broken-in pair of boots. So I tried other brands—all the usual suspects—and only found the pain that comes from looking for love in all the wrong places. So it was with much trepidation that I kicked off my Vans and agreed to give these Thorogoods the Worn treatment. But I did, and since I’d been down this road so many times before, it didn’t take long after lacing them up for me to know how this was going to go. I took a step, and then…the clouds parted, and I swear, I swear I could hear a chorus of angels…the Dodgevilles were different! Finally, I get to be a boot guy!

The Materials

While he may occasionally get all Game of Thrones on innocent footwear, David also did a comprehensive assessment of some major boot brands and styles, noting the differences between their comfort and construction. It’s worth revisiting that series if you’re thinking of laying down the serious scratch that any decent pair of boots will cost you, especially these Thorogoods that lie at the pricey end of the spectrum.

The Dodgeville Boot is part of Thorogood’s 1892 Collection, “hand built in Marshfield, Wisconsin using techniques that have been perfected since the company was founded in 1892.”

It features a familiar cap toe design, made of Horween Chromexcel leather, with Goodyear welt construction, and a leather and Vibram lug outsole. All this is great, but lots of other boots I tried featured similar materials and design features, and they all put a hurt on me.

However, what’s unique to the Dodgeville is their No. 60 last, which Thorogood claims, “gives a roomy toe box for maximum comfort.” I’m no cobbler, but the immediate comfort of these boots has made me a No. 60 Last evangelist, testifying to it providing me the comfort and relief that I found nowhere else. To Thorogood, it may be No. 60, but to me it’s #1!

The Details

• Dodgeville by Thorogood, in Cognac
• Iconic style of the No. 60 Last
• Horween Chromexcel horsehide leather
• Goodyear welt construction
• Leather and Vibram lug outsole
• 100% made in USA
• Available for $375 from Huckberry

The Utility

My Dodgevilles were immediately comfortable, and with subsequent wearings only got more so. I haven’t logged as many miles in these as I would have were I still living in New York City instead of Venice Beach (I can’t wait to review a pair of Heritage Brand flip-flops), but they’ve been around the block and across the sawdust strewn, beer soaked barroom floor of the legendary Hinano enough for me to know that I’m not deluding myself…this is no Stockholm Syndrome.

These boots are exceedingly comfortable, yielding to the shape of my feet and leaving no need for me to search Yelp for a well-reviewed local podiatrist. The fit, like most boots, will have you likely sizing down from your non-boots. (I’m a 12 in Vans and a 10.5 in Iron Rangers, and in these I was a perfect 11.)  As for the styling, they are all I ever wanted. The cap toe is classic, and the white contrast stitching along the sole gives a nice pop, though I imagine it would have darkened with age.

We may be living in the golden age of premium leather, and I love them all for different applications, but this cognac Horween Chromexcel made for the perfect combination of comfort and durability (things can get crazy at Hinano…why do you think it was Jim Morrison’s favorite haunt?)

The Conclusion

What’s not to like? Oh wait, the price. $375 is a steep entry point, especially when you consider they’re about $150 more than the infamous Iron Ranger (but they made me cry, so they might as well be free and I still would feel overcharged). So are these Thorogoods, a name that might be new to you, worth it? I say yes, and that’s not just academic as I’m now without a pair and need to replace the ones I had grown to love so dearly.

These beauties are made to be re-soled, so they should last at least your lifetime, and will likely end up as part of a cool window display in a Ralph Lauren store of the future. So I’m saving up as I embark on the next Worn Out review. (Let’s just hope that David Shuck doesn’t see fit to start cutting off one pant leg of the denim I review, or I’m going to have to hire a lawyer.)

The post Thorogood Dodgeville Boots Review – Worn Out appeared first on Heddels.com.

Let’s get real for a second: the women’s heritage market has been painfully underrepresented for decades now. While there have been some strides with well-conceived brands like W’Menswear, for every one of those there are a half dozen “shrink it and pink it” gaffes that set it all back further than when it started.

That’s why it’s so refreshing to see one of the biggest names in the heritage game do it and do it right. After much development Red Wing Heritage recently launched its women’s collection after reaching back into their archives for some of the original models the Minnesota bootmaker produced in the early twentieth century.

The models range from interpretations of the Classic Moc Toe and Iron Ranger to the Clara, a pump-heeled lace up, and the imposing 15-eyelet Gloria, based on a hiking boot from the 1920s. According to Red Wing product manager Allison Gettings, the boots were designed from the ground up, using different materials and lasts for a better fit than just a men’s model in a smaller size.

You can find the first few models of the full line for $290-$550 at Railcar Fine Goods.

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Today’s featured bit of indigo glory is a pair of Big John Gunjo, worn for the better part of two and a half years by Eric Hatcher from Canada. While we weren’t given much back story on these jeans, there are a couple things we can assume right off the bat.

First, they were worn hard and washed often as is evident fact by how light they have become since their first wear. Secondly, we can assume Eric got tired of cuffing as it seems he has taken a pair of scissors to the ankles of his jeans. But hey, we aren’t judging when the fades are this rad.

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It’s a bird! It’s a plane! It’s some sort of triangular geometric pattern that Samurai Jeans has turned into a wabash print for its latest indigo shirt. The rock and roll Japanese denim brand has never been one for subtlety and their latest workshirt is sure to turn a few heads.

The pattern is actually known as “Kunai” and mimics the look of the Japanese throwing stars, shuriken. But instead of cutting heads, you want to cut some attention, look for this shirt with its cats-eye buttons, triple chainstitch runoff, and striped indigo dye.

This sharp number is available for 23,760 JPY (~$233 USD) at Samurai.

The post Samurai Jeans SMBS “Makishibi” Wabash Indigo Shirts appeared first on Heddels.com.

If you thought Studio D’artisan couldn’t get any weirder or more obscure than some of their novelty jeans, then you apparently haven’t heard of their weirder, more obscure, and more difficult to pronounce sub-label Orgueil (org-well, or-gway, or-gwoo-ell?).

The offshoot has decidedly more French roots than SDA, and their latest model is a play on the ever-popular war-rationed 1944 501. Their model has all the period trimmings like a crotch rivet, no arcs on the back pockets, and a honking big coin pocket.

You too can party like it’s 1944 for ~$327 at Son of a Stag.

The post Orgueil OR-1011 13oz. Tinted Weft WWII Jean appeared first on Heddels.com.

When you’re tasteful and a 1980’s marathon runner, the Victory Sportswear x JJJJound Trail Runner Sneakers are what you wear. In collaboration with Justin Saunders of the blog JJJJound, Victory made an exclusive run for the aesthetically pleasing blog. Mid-grey and beige make up the color scheme of the suede and mesh combo sneaker and it hits the ground running thanks to its made in Italy Svig sole. And for an extra bit of tastefulness, they’ve inverted the Victory tongue label.

As always, the sneakers are recraftable thanks to their unique construction. Available at the JJJJound shoppe for $295.

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3sixteen are known to make clean jeans with complex fabrics, and as the proud owner of these 3sixteen ST-121x after a year of wear, Santa Cruz’s Kevin Feng can testify to this. Woven exclusively by Kuroki Mills, the heavyweight indigo warp/black weft selvedge denim is crafted to withstand a fair amount of abuse.

Kevin’s pair have been through just a single ocean wash, but the daily wear has developed vivid honeycombs and deep fades on the back pockets. His lap fades are less intense, but the whiskers are crisp and well-defined. After just one year, the color in this denim is beginning to truly come alive and should evolve to boast highly contrasted fade patterns as more time passes.

The post Fade of the Day – 3sixteen ST-121x (1 Year, 1 wash) appeared first on Heddels.com.

Coming from Seed to Sew with much American made goodness are PF Flyers’s latest collaboration with Gitman Bros. Vintage. The two brands have teamed up to make a Made in USA Center Hi sneaker out of GBV’s domestically sourced cotton denim.

The shoe represents nearly two years of development and production between the two brands (see our full video of the process) as they found the right mix between their two brands. The result is a high-top shoe with the same pigskin lining and DESMA injection molded footbed as regular MiUSA Centers, but it has the Gitman green grosgrain, embroidered eyelet, and the upper is made out of their shirting denim.

You can pick up your limited edition pair for $159 at PF Flyers.

Factory images above by Ryan Lindow.

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Your favorite painted-pocket denim brand Momotaro recently celebrated their 10th birthday the best way they know how – with some new jeans! You can now purchase their 10th Anniversary Original Slub Denim Jeans, available in three cuts of 15.7oz. Zimbabwe cotton denim with a special gold and pink selvedge ID.

For this occasion, the brand decided to incorporate some neat little features like a gold foil printed Tochigi leather patch and limited jacquard print pocket bags, along with a “timeline” of buttons they have used over the years in the fly. It’s offered in a straight, slim, and tight fit so no matter what your preference is you can still be a part of the celebration. They are even including a 10th anniversary printed bag and bandana as a part of the package.

The Narrow Straight, Slim Straight, and Middle Straight fits are all available at Okayama Denim for $232.

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